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mechanical or electrical?

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mechanical or electrical? - 3/8/2008 7:06:43 PM   
Toph2008

 

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Joined: 3/6/2008
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I just bought a 1996 MX 6 with 84k miles on itfrom a small corner lot.  Within 2 days of buying it, the engine started revving and lurching while driving.  Also, the last time I started it up, the engine light was on and the O/D light was flashing.  I'd only driven it less than 200 miles!  I called the guy I bought it from, and he told me to disconnect the battery cables and touch them together for at least a couple hours.  That seemed to work, but I took it to a dealership anyway to ask them what the issue might be, and they told me that if the O/D light is flashing and the engine light is on it most likely needs a new transmission, and that Mazda does not allow them to rebuild them, they have to replace it.  I contacted the dealer I bought it from and he told me that he thought it was an electrical issue, not mechanical, and that the battery was bad.  He said if I replaced the battery, that would most likely clear up the problem.  Now, I don't know too much about cars, but that seemed crazy to me.  Can anyone give me some feedback on this?  Also, the Mazda dealer I took it to said the EGR has some carbon build-up and is sticking ($800 to fix) and the O2 sensor was bad ($350 fix).  Those things plus a new transmission would be more than what I paid for the car!  Any help is appreciated.
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RE: mechanical or electrical? - 3/8/2008 7:38:04 PM   
MikeHTally


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Joined: 1/19/2008
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That's the risk of buying a twelve-year-old car. I had a '95 LX6 that went through five transmissions in two years. Only had to pay for one of 'em. We learned that Ford put lousy transmissions in the Mazda and the Probe. The tranny can be rebuilt, I bet. I like the part of leaving the battery cables disconnected and touching for a couple of hours, LOL! That and holding your right ear with your left hand and starting the motor should make it last a million miles.

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RE: mechanical or electrical? - 3/9/2008 8:15:06 AM   
virgin1


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Joined: 3/15/2007
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I'm sure the guy you bought it from was telling you to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery, which should take care of the CEL, temporarily.  Of course he probably bought it at a car auction somewhere and has no idea what it's history is.  I'd guess that it's not the battery, but that's easy to check w/a $3.00 hygrometer.
Does it seem (feel) that the trans is causing the problem, or could it be something in the FI system, such as a throttle position sensor?  I know that was a weak link in this car after so many miles too.
And $800 for an EGR and $350 for an O2 sounds excessive to me, though both might also be causing your symptoms.  Both these parts should be relatively cheap, easy and quick to change.



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"There is no tool you can buy that will replace experience." - Josh Mills, C.K.DeLuxe


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