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Cusser -> RE: Weber Convo's (12/12/2007 10:29:14 AM)
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I ran mine without a fuel pressure regulator, then added one from EMPI; I really can't tell much difference, my '88 has stock (replacement) mechanical fuel pump. If you do convert to Weber, you won't need the oxygen sensor, so nix that. I left the wiring harnesses to the carb circuits in the engine compartment, but wrapped them well with wire covers. All vacuum ports are plugged/capped, except for the one to the distributor vacuum advance and one which goes to the manifold valve then to the EGR.
Comments about Weber K675 kit for Mazda B2200 1988 (Weber 32/36 DGEV)
Buy some extra 5/32 inch vacuum hose for stuff like the distributor vacuum advance, and some vacuum block-off caps (or use vacuum hose and golf tees).
Instructions detailed a 6mm hex/allen key being required for the adapter screws; actually, it was a 5mm hex key required, and I cut down a 5mm L-shaped hex key with a hacksaw to use in my 5mm socket so I could use my torque wrench to get 12 ft-lb of torque like the instructions stated.
Bottom adapter plate needs to be ground away around the intake manifold PCV inlet, best if a bench grinder is available; there is a picture showing this, why couldn’t manufacturer just take care of this?
I replaced the brittle, hard PCV tubing with 3/8 inch fuel line.
The supplied carb mounting studs are too long (they are the same length as those removed from the intake manifold). A shorter one is needed for the rear right location to have clearance to get the nut on; I had to cut one shorter for that spot. I’d also advise installing the studs BEFORE mounting the top adapter, there’s no other way to make sure that they don’t get installed too deeply.
The top adapter plate could go in either of two orientations as it’s not symmetrical. I still don’t know which way is correct, not shown instructions.
I’d recommend using the 12mm head nuts from the Mazda to mount the carb itself, as the supplied ones have a 13mm head (the threads are the same). This will provide more clearance for tightening. These 12mm head nuts are available from Japanese vehicle parts counters or as JIS nuts at places like Ace Hardware.
The instructions did not mention how to mount the return spring at the bottom; it turns out that there was an almost-oval bracket with two holes included for mounting in the place where the dashpot was, but no mention of the bracket was in the instructions. It's actually better to mount it on the rearmost EGR valve bolt.
One side of the two air cleaner clamps for the rear need to be ground down a little so that they seat fully into the bottom groove; if not, they will hit the carb itself.
There should have been a right-angle adapter for the crankcase ventilation hose; the supplied one points down, making it difficult to attach to the valve cover outlet because of the bends required. I used a brass right-angle 3/8 tubing fitting and 15/32 smog hose for this; I saw in a photo of a kit online where a right-angle adapter is shown. The hole in the air cleaner bottom was just a pinch too small for the supplied adapter anyway, so I had to ream the hole a little larger.
Instructions should’ve stated to re-route the choke wire more to the front of the engine so that no extension to the wire would be needed.
I added a L-shaped bracket to the supplied accelerator cable bracket for my add-on Audiovox cruise control. I ‘broadened” the cable groove using a small vise-grip as the cruise control cable was a little to the side. I used a 2 inch corner brace mounted to one of the now-unused valve cover holes to attach the accelerator and cruise control cables with a cable tie, to keep them off the hot valve cover.
I used three #2 rubber stoppers from Ace Hardware to seal off the reed valves.
Instructions did not state whether I needed to put any oil like K&N on the new air cleaner element.
Instructions were not clear about the EGR valve connection. Apparently they meant that the vacuum hose that went to the thermo valve (underneath the manifold, has two vacuum ports at an angle) now goes to the EGR port on the carb. This is the port just rearward of where the distributor vacuum advance goes, but the small brass cap needs to be unscrewed first with a tiny screwdriver.
Photos are posted at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2334519/1
From K6 K6@MazdaTruckin.Com
The 2 vacuum ports coming out of the weber, you don't use both of them. One you plug, the other you run to the thermovalve and then from the thermovalve to the distributor vacuum advance. This is so that the advance doesn't work until the engine warms up. I don't think it really matters that much because distributor has a mechanical advance/governor mechanisim built into it as well.
EGR vacuum can be plugged. Without the other systems the computer can no longer operate the EGR. I would keep the PTC heater installed as it will help with de-icing on cold days.
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