323 Bucks on throttle

Mazda Forum Mazda Classifieds Photo Gallery Member List Search Contact Us Sponsors
Models Mazda News Mazda Recalls TSBs Timeslips Register Login

323 Bucks on throttle

Printable Version

Mazda >> General Mazda Forums >> General Tech >> 323 Bucks on throttle

Page: [1]

Message

<< Older Topic Newer Topic >>

323 Bucks on throttle - 11/5/2007 6:44:28 AM

UniCav

Posts: 3
Joined: 11/5/2007
Status: offline

I really need some advice on my 89 323 1.6L Non-Turbo.
The car suddenly developed a problem last week and I have been unable to sort it out.
The car will crank and idles perfectly, smoothly with no stuttering, no smoke or smell,
but as soon as you apply throttle the engine will only rev up a bit and then bucks or chokes and then revs again.
It will do this over and over, never fully throttles up, keeps choking and revving again.
During this time the car smells really bad of gas but there's still no smoke.

I've pulled the trouble code several times, the only code is Code 1 - Ignition Pulse
I've changed the plugs and coil. The wires, cap and rotor all look fine. No sign of shorts or arcs and no carbon buildup.
Checked the fuel pressure and was only getting 25-45psi so we changed the filter and then the pump itself,
now I'm getting 65+psi but no change whatsoever in the problem.
I'm thinking Distributor since it's an ignition code but I'm also worried about the air meter.

Any ideas, suggestions, Thanks in advance.

Post #: 1

RE: 323 Bucks on throttle - 11/6/2007 2:25:57 PM

hixx

Posts: 464
Joined: 8/26/2007
Status: offline

65 psi is way too high. Code 01 is ignition so either pickup coil/igniter, wiring to the ECU or ECU problems. Check the AFM flap for free movement and the boot from the AFM to throttlebody for cracks though as the surge is typical for a broken boot.

(in reply to UniCav)

Post #: 2

RE: 323 Bucks on throttle - 11/7/2007 1:52:58 PM

UniCav

Posts: 3
Joined: 11/5/2007
Status: offline

According to the manual and other sources I've pulled 65-85psi is the requirement, but that's also under test conditions (no connection to the fuel rail, gauge installed right after the filter, pump activated manually). I've looked the entire air path over from air meter to throttle body and found no cracks or leaks. The tubes from the valve cover to the air intake are old and need replacing but they seem to be sealed fine. I've also run the car with those 2 holes plugged in the intake. I had planned to fix up a custom air tube without those and just run the crankcase feeds directly to the EGR with an open element filter on it's own to keep the oil out of the system when I ever found the right tubing.

I ohm'd out the AFM and it seems fine, air vane is working great.
Plugs/Coil/Wires/Cap/Rotor all checked so the next logical thing is the Distributor and Igniter Module. I'm trying to track one down now.

(in reply to UniCav)

Post #: 3

Fixed - 11/16/2007 5:30:44 AM

UniCav

Posts: 3
Joined: 11/5/2007
Status: offline

The trouble code was right. Ignition module in the distributor was bad.

(in reply to UniCav)

Post #: 4