stalls

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Mazda Forums >> Mazda Vehicles >> Mazda 323,Mazda 626 & Mazda 929 >> stalls

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stalls - 1/29/2007 9:58:17 PM

dbudman

Posts: 1
Joined: 1/14/2007
Status: offline

got a 88 626 with 2.2 auto. it stalls when you put into r or d. car runs great otherwise. had replaced the tranny cause the t. converter was locked up drives fine now. new tuneup,fuelpump,had valves fixed in head cause they were leaking and new batt. it still stalls. had a few different mech. look at it and no one can fig. it out. no vac. leaks,boot is not cracked, no engine light on and no flashes when you do the jump wire off the green plug by left shocktower. one mech. seems o thing its electrical something to do with the converter not engaging/disengaging . anyhelp needed

Post #: 1

RE: stalls - 1/30/2007 6:01:47 AM

6man

Posts: 48
Joined: 5/28/2006
Status: offline

may be the throttle position sensor

(in reply to dbudman)

Post #: 2

RE: stalls - 5/12/2007 7:36:57 PM

Jer

Posts: 6
Joined: 5/12/2007
Status: offline

OK maybe it is the same problem I am having with My 94 Mazda 626, although the engine runs great it will stall. doesn't have to be in gear. Just give some good RPM's for a bit and it will dive from 3,000 to 0 in an instant. Drive it slow and it will run fine for a while then bam! Nothing. Crank position sensor a rare item to fail has 620 ohms. Air mass sensor OK, TPS checks out OK and you don'r have to be moving the throttle it will Just Dive to 0 RPM. Anyone out ther have an idea?? I heard there is a problem, electrical inherent in the distributor, is the transistor in the stator flawed? Is this IT??

(in reply to 6man)

Post #: 3

RE: stalls - 5/12/2007 7:40:22 PM

Jer

Posts: 6
Joined: 5/12/2007
Status: offline

By the way the fuel filter had been replaced just in case that was the problem. Unfortunitely it was a lot of work and didn't solve IT.

(in reply to Jer)

Post #: 4

RE: stalls - 5/30/2007 1:46:30 AM

mazzfan

Posts: 107
Joined: 10/6/2005
Status: offline

The last time that I had the same stalling problem, when coming to a stop, or very low idle after starting... My mechanic told me that it was my Mazda Throttle Position Sensor, because my Throttle body is coated with carbon deposits and the carbon build-up eventually blocks off the gap between the throttle plate and throttle body bore, causing lees air flow while the throttle plate was closed. Over time, the computer compensates by opening the AIS valve further to bypass more air. The problem was that it gets harder for the computer to control the idle, especially when coming to a stop or when the throttle is "blipped". He alos told me that this build-up can also occurs in the AIS passage as well and eventually the AIS cannot bypass enough air to keep the engine idling... So, he ask him to replace the throttle because it can still reoccur if he will just clean it...

(in reply to Jer)

Post #: 5

RE: stalls - 6/14/2007 3:41:59 PM

Jer

Posts: 6
Joined: 5/12/2007
Status: offline

OK here is the diagnosis and the solution I had found.
Car stalled, Would run fine to start but would get to 3,000 RPM and would die. RPM's would go straight to 0. I would wait a while and it would start. I first thought it was a fuel problem, not so, fuel filter was changed, replaced the Crank position sensor. Still died ( Usually liked to do it in traffic).
Had to be an electrical problem. I read about the " Hot Soak " The distributor in this 94, 626, V6 has its ignition coil and circuitry in the distributor. The transistor that fires the coil will fail ( when hot with electricity ) in this model of car. I checked out all the voltages and they were OK. I had to bite the bullet and try the distributor. I went to a car Parts Store and found a rebuilt for $357, it lacked the gasket rotor and cap. I was not happy and the thing would not rotate smoothly.
The best way to solve this is a good bone yard ( auto parts recycling ) I found one for $200 complete. It is not hard to replace a distributor. Just make sure it is on TDC ( top dead center ) to reinstall or adjust it for the mark ( groove )on the crank pulley to align with the TDC mark on plastic shield. then make sure the rotor is pointing to the # 1 position on the distributer cap.
Replacing all the other hoses and air filter stuff in the way I cleared any codes and fired it up. Wham !!! it runs better than ever and the transmission now shifts smoothly.
Been running it for a few weeks now. That problem is gone.

(in reply to mazzfan)

Post #: 6