detailing your engine bay...
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RE: detailing your engine bay... - 5/8/2006 10:34:31 PM
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the_gray_mazda6
Posts: 1886
Joined: 8/13/2005 From: Pittsburgh, PA Status: offline
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i'm a big fan of using an air compressor after i'm done detailing my engine bay just to blow off all the excess water... then what i do is wipe off the remaing parts quickly with a dry towel. then the rest is left to be sun-dried with the hood open in the sun for about 20 minutes or so.
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RE: detailing your engine bay... - 5/12/2006 8:18:34 AM
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Tracker
Posts: 2045
Joined: 1/9/2006 Status: offline
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cool thanks for the link.
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RE: detailing your engine bay... - 5/12/2006 2:44:41 PM
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the_gray_mazda6
Posts: 1886
Joined: 8/13/2005 From: Pittsburgh, PA Status: offline
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yeah, figured that would help out a good bit. just found it one day while surfing the internet and thought i'd post it here to help others out!
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2005 M6S with a few goodies! My CarDomain Page
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RE: detailing your engine bay... - 5/13/2006 11:13:00 PM
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Tracker
Posts: 2045
Joined: 1/9/2006 Status: offline
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too bad im to lazy to do it, but when im getting ready for the next show (thats next next saturday) i get the cleanin...or at least my friends will.
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R.I.P Jay: Gone but not forgotten R.I.P Uncle James: I didnt deserve you
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RE: detailing your engine bay... - 5/14/2006 8:43:18 AM
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Alucard
Posts: 381
Joined: 10/9/2005 From: Mustang, Oklahoma Status: offline
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Yeah I am glad to see a link like that one. I have been looking for some more info on cleaning the engine bay. I haven't really cleaned mine out to much because I wasn't sure what to use. Mainly I was afraid of using something that would eat at my hoses and any thing else that was rubber. Too bad I don't have a hose, I guess I could just go to a car wash and just use one of the sprayers there, just keep it on a low setting. Any tips on detailing metal? Any good rust removers out there? I have some little specks of spot rust on my heat sheald and I would like see if I can get them off of just keep the rest of the rust away.
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RE: detailing your engine bay... - 5/14/2006 9:57:33 PM
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the_gray_mazda6
Posts: 1886
Joined: 8/13/2005 From: Pittsburgh, PA Status: offline
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simply, for you heat shield... you can sand that away. and for detailing metal, i'm not too sure what to use for that. maybe just wipe it down real good and wax a bit over it if you get it all prettied up nicely. Types: There are different types of sandpaper, each has a specific use. Generally there are 2 categories of sand paper, wet and dry. Sand papers are primarily made of sand and/or silica and garnet, adhered to a ground of resin on paper. Grades of paper: Sandpaper is manufactured in many grades, also known as levels of coarseness, or ‘grit’. The lower the grade, or grit of sandpaper, the coarser, and stronger abrading power of that paper. Quick chart - Sandpaper 30 grit extremely coarse 60 grit Coarse 80 grit coarse - recommended for removing rust from metal, difficult dried paint areas 100 grit coarse - recommended for removing rust from metal, difficult dried paint areas 120 grit recommended for general purpose, drywall patches 180 grit recommended for general purpose, drywall patches 220 grit recommended for general purpose, furniture 240 grit recommended for general purpose, furniture 320 grit recommended for general purpose, furniture and first sand for fine finishing 400 grit recommended for fine finishing, polishing, gilding 600 grit recommended for fine finishing, polishing, gilding 800 grit recommended for fine finishing, polishing, gilding 1000 grit recommended for fine finishing, polishing, gilding 1200 grit recommended for hand rubbed finishes, fine finishing, polishing, gilding 1600 grit extremely fine. Polishing, jewelry Sanding methods: Knowing your intention for the finished product before starting will make it easier to properly prepare the item being treated. The common approach to sanding is to begin with a lower grit paper, or coarser paper, and increase the fineness of the sandpaper until desired results are achieved. Metal: Begin with loosening and scraping any loose paint or rust with a metal-toothed brush or coarse steel wool. Starting with a coarse grade of sandpaper move regularly over surface. Continue in this manner with increasingly finer grades of sandpaper until sufficient level of desired smoothness.
< Message edited by the_gray_mazda6 -- 5/14/2006 9:58:20 PM >
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2005 M6S with a few goodies! My CarDomain Page
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RE: detailing your engine bay... - 7/15/2007 10:14:18 AM
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Oh6sixXx
Posts: 107
Joined: 6/1/2007 Status: offline
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i whipe my engine compartment down after every wash, and dress the plastics up a bit. stays pretty clean, onsidering i wash my car maybe 2 times a week haha i cant stand a dirty car. Thumbnail Image
Attachment (1)
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2006 Mazda 6s 3.0 v6, 6 speed auto Glacier Silver / gray cloth Mods: hyper whites in the "city lights", red interior lighting, JDM grill, BMW M3 trunk lip, fog lights... I plan on intake/exhaust/suspension/wheels/body mods
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RE: detailing your engine bay... - 7/26/2007 5:24:48 PM
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thedfo
Posts: 78
Joined: 7/24/2007 Status: offline
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oh6siXx, Where'd you get the metal block cover (or whatever you call it)? Mines just the standard black, and I was thinking about doing something to spruce it up.
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RE: detailing your engine bay... - 7/26/2007 6:54:05 PM
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Oh6sixXx
Posts: 107
Joined: 6/1/2007 Status: offline
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thats the stock cover, i painted it at work, its basecoat/clearcoat, not spray paint. i plan on painting more parts too..ill post pics asap.
< Message edited by Oh6sixXx -- 7/26/2007 6:56:21 PM >
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2006 Mazda 6s 3.0 v6, 6 speed auto Glacier Silver / gray cloth Mods: hyper whites in the "city lights", red interior lighting, JDM grill, BMW M3 trunk lip, fog lights... I plan on intake/exhaust/suspension/wheels/body mods
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