drivability problem

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drivability problem - 4/18/2005 9:35:42 AM    mcdata   Posts: 2 Joined: 4/7/2005 Status: offline I am working on a 8/95 millinia S with a 2.5 v6. After driven for about 15 to 20 minutes the(tcs off light & abs light) comes on and it will not accellerate correctly. If you turn the car off it will work fine for a little while and then do this again. If the car sets for awhile it will be fine for another 20 minutes. The accelleration feels like there is not enough fuel but the pressure stays fine before and after the problem. I had a blown head gasket replaced but it had this problem before that. The car runs good up until the (tcs off) light comes on. I believe the abs code in the computer was something about a communication problem with the ecu. Anyone have any ideas. Stumped Mike Higdon Post #: 1

RE: drivability problem - 4/19/2005 9:51:46 AM    MAZDASERVICE   Posts: 131 Joined: 2/2/2005 Status: offline is the car mis-firing? if so , when those lights come on together it may indicate a ignition coil problem-also if the coil is fouled then make sure you check the heated cat. it may be burnt and plugged.There is an extended warranty on those catalytic converters at the dealer for this concern.You dont wanna know how much money thay are to replace. _____________________________ ZOOM ZOOM ZOOM! "EVEN A JOURNEY OF A THOUSAND MILES BEGINS WITH BUT ONE STEP" (in reply to mcdata) Post #: 2

RE: drivability problem - 5/10/2005 1:48:54 AM    rotormotor2   Posts: 9 Joined: 5/7/2005 Status: offline to me it sounds like maybe you have a loose connection to the ABS/Traction control computer or malfunctioning abs computer and the unit is cutting the spark thinking that the tires are spinning when they are not, were any wires pulled when the head gasket was changed? does the car work ok with the TCS disabled? just a thought (in reply to MAZDASERVICE) Post #: 3

RE: drivability problem - 6/22/2005 4:51:15 PM    Lenox273   Posts: 3 Joined: 6/22/2005 Status: offline Mike, Sorry you are having the same problem I have also. I work in an independent repair shop and I am having this same issue with a 1999 Millenia S 2.5l. Car came to us after another garage installed a reman engine. This one sets a C1118 abs code and a P1540. The 1540 only sets when this problem occurs but does not set it every time. The rpm is limited when this happens and seems to be load sensitive. If I lightly apply the throttle it drives and shifts normally but this is at less than 1/3rd throttle. Anything above the rpms fluctuate between 1,200 and 2,300 depending on amount of throttle applied. Does not seem to be a fuel or ignition issue although the scanner shows lean when this occurs. I have to check fuel pressure yet. The engine seems to be being commanded to do this rather than a reaction to another problem, for example loss of fuel pressure, ignition misfire etc. It does not misfire. Pull over and cycle key off the restart things are fine for about 5-10 miles or so. Can anyone out there shed any light on this for Mike and I? Looks like it should be a problem that someone has run into before. Mike's description is dead on this cars problem. Help please. (in reply to rotormotor2) Post #: 4

RE: drivability problem - 6/22/2005 8:22:00 PM    gtxtreme   Posts: 120 Joined: 5/31/2005 Status: offline I wish, I knew how to post diagrams. The Lysholm Compressor and it control system, they make it seem difficult, if broken down to separate components it's fairly simple. P1525, P1526, P1540, & P1601 plus C1118, with MIL light on, either or both HOLD and TCS, on or flashing are related. The first two are control solenoids for vent and vacuum to the AIR BYPASS VALVE. There either open or short circuited. P1540 Air Bypass System malfunction. ABV and shutter valve are used to control the intake air pressure and to direct the air into the intercoolers or intake ports. They're trying to control the intake air pressure and temperature for a given driving condition. P1601 communication error between the PCM and TCM ( powertrain control module and transmission control module). C1118 another communication error by the TCS (traction control system which is related to the anti-lock brake system). The causes can be improper hose connections (reman engine replacement)the vacuum hose diagram looks like a bowl of noddles. Vacuum hose disconnected, cracked, eaten by mice, etc. On to electrical causes pinched wire, poor connections, eaten by mice, etc. To see these parts, you must remove the plastic cover and right or bank 1 intercooler tube; 10mm socket. Both the shutter valve air bypass valve are connected to the intake. The shutter valve is in the center, there's a rod and actuator connected to it. The air bypass valve is bolted to the intake runners and the Lysholm Compressor. It has five hoses connected to it, with gold color cap. Start checking hoses and wires for how. I hope this is of some help, will keep checking in. (in reply to Lenox273) Post #: 5

RE: drivability problem - 6/23/2005 7:14:32 AM    Lenox273   Posts: 3 Joined: 6/22/2005 Status: offline gtxtreme, Thanks. This is a 2.3l Miller Cycle engine. I thought it was a 2.5L. Did not check the VIN# and the engine label was missing. I just assumed that it was the bigger of the two choices. Should know better by now. I will check the things you mentioned above. I already checked the obvious vaccum and electrical issues but you gave me a little more direction where to look. First one of these I have seen. I will update if find anything. (in reply to gtxtreme) Post #: 6

RE: drivability problem - 6/23/2005 8:49:24 AM    Lenox273   Posts: 3 Joined: 6/22/2005 Status: offline gtextreme, THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. I checked fuel pressure last night and it was off. Reading about 30 psi. Pump was capable of 70 psi. After that and reading your reply this morning I figured it out in 5 minutes. It all came together when I decided to print out a vaccum diagram from our Mitchell On Demand and realized that I had a 2.3L instead of a 2.5L. Now the p1540 made sense. Knew it was specific to a 2.3 and couldn't figure out why this 2.5 was throwing this code. I know now! The vaccum hoses for the Pressure Regulator Control solenoid and the Air Bypass Valve Solenoid were crossed. The port on the bypass valve and the port on the regulator are very close to each other and can reach the other and look correct when switched. Once I had the diagram in hand and checked those items it was fixed. Fuel pressure is at 43 psi and reacts normally and the car runs 10 times better. Thank you again. Hope I can return the favor to you or someone else someday. Thank you. (in reply to Lenox273) Post #: 7

RE: drivability problem - 6/4/2006 5:13:06 AM    rubenG   Posts: 5 Joined: 6/4/2006 Status: offline can i see that diagram please seems to be a very comon problem in australia 2 (in reply to Lenox273) Post #: 8

RE: drivability problem - 6/5/2006 1:22:11 PM    babyhuey   Posts: 2759 Joined: 7/28/2005 Status: offline This is the vacuum routing diagram for a 2000 Millenia S with 2.3l engine. Thumbnail Image Attachment (1) (in reply to rubenG) Post #: 9

RE: drivability problem - 7/25/2006 6:36:43 PM    ShottsCruisers Posts: 8 Joined: 7/25/2006 Status: offline HELP NEEDED ON THIS TOO PLEASE. WHAT SHOULD I DO FIRST? I have a .95 "S" with 135K...replaced motor and S/C via eBay. Runs and operates superbly. We replaced all wear items at the same time. Worked OK for a couple of weeks then....this same problem began. The frequency of the problem has increased, though it does take some miles before first act-up each day. Other than what I read above, here's some added observations: ONCE the TSC OFF light lights: *The car on-and-offs the gas by itself at the 2000-2500RPM mark *The car IN NEUTRAL does the same thing...you can floor it, though the RPM's just jerk back and forth from 2-2500RPM (Once when I sat still and did this for a few seconds then let off the gas a big pop of white smoke blew out from under the car) *Shutting the car off then restart buys you more time as everything resets *If you're REALLY light on the gas the car will run OK until about 2500RPM. I printed out the hose diagram and will have my mechanic check his work. Meanwhile...what do you think I should check FIRST? THANKS MUCH! _____________________________ Land Cruiser and Mazda Enthusiast (in reply to babyhuey) Post #: 10

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