Yesterday the window was UP and via the armrest switch I moved it to the DOWN position. Then I lifted the switch to raise the window but the window only moved HALF WAY UP then stopped moving. Then, via the switch, I move the window fully DOWN. Then via the switch I moved the window fully UP.
But from then onwards the switch will not move the window.
I have removed the switch panel from the armrest and 12 volts are at the driver's door window switch. The other window switches function ok.
Any suggestions please? Thank you.
I have removed the front o/s door panel to expose the window winder motor. When the door window switch is operated there is a 'click' from the motor, both in the up and down switch position. But the window will not move from its UP position. So I am not much further in resolving this problem and will greatly appreciate advice.
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I think this is a cable driven system, so there's a cable around a pulley that's driven from the motor, then the cable ends attach to the window track to pull up or pull down.
I can only think the cable is bound up, I had a 93 maxima where the window had been blocked by ice, and when the window was moved down, one end of the cable got just slack enough to cross over the next wire on the motor drive pulley. SO when it tried to move it would click or bind as it was dragging one cable over the other.
If you can move the window to get to the mounting screws, you can unbolt the window from the track and get a better look at what is going on.
Dave - 2007 3GT - black, badges removed, door bumpers removed, auto up windows, backup sensors, adjustable HID headlight modification, current limited high beams, fog lamps able to be on with parking lights only, under seat subwoofer. I'm usually on mazda3club.com instead of here - where many of the above 'mods' are that show in my signature.
Used to have GSL-SE's too
Thanks for info. In fact, I think the fault is the motor. I've removed it, but the job gets more involved: the cables have come unwound from the 'bobbin' and now the whole inner door panel needs removing to try to wind the cables back on and relocate the 'bobbin'. Then I will try the motor under load again. Attached to the motor is what I believe to be the 'regulator' ie it senses when the window is fully up and fully down. At present I cannot see how to detach the regulator from the motor. Quite a learning curve for me!
I finally had recourse to my local garage. They fitted a new regulator/track. The original motor is fitted and although it was previously temperamental now seems to be working ok.
Thanks to all those who offered suggestions.
Make sure you put in a new window weatherstrip to keep water out. On one of my previous cars, the water would work it's way into the switch and short it out. I removed the harness plug at the switch (behind door panel), dried it, attached 2 wire connectors, plugged them in and then I siliconed the whole area to prevent water from getting in. It worked. It happened to me when it rained.
__________________ 2006 Mazda 6, 3.0-V6, 6 Speed ATX, 61000 km MODS:24mm Progess Rear Sway, 1.5" Drop Front, LED int lights, K&N SRI to CAI with engine baffle, Steeda 1/2 Spacer, Battery insulated, Solar Panel, Pre-Cat Back Custom Exhaust to 2.5"Magnaflow Main Cat, MazdaSpeed Cat Back, 2V Hi Voltage Ign Coils, Water Shield, HiD Low Beams, 2 15" Subs, Extra Grounds, External Tranny Cooler, Tinted Windows, 180 T-Stat, Lucas Engine Oil, B&G Tranny Oil, Cut Throttle Shaft, Chrome Strips
Hello everyone I'm new here. I have a 2005 Mazda 3S and I have a problem with left front window of my car, it doesn't go down at all, when I press the switch nothing happens and if I continue pressing the switch sounds a clic on the window but again nothing happens. The weirdest thing is that it happens mostly at the day when the weather is hot or very hot, because at night when the weather is cold the window works just fine? I don't know what to do, I think I'm going crazy with this?
Do you know what it could be ? I read something about a problem with a plastic or something like that on the windows mechanics that doesn't work on hot weathers? Is that true?