Problem Starting After Re-fueling
#1
Problem Starting After Re-fueling
My childs 05 or 06 (I forget) Mazda 5 seems to have an issue. It's happened 3 or 4 times in the past year: after she refuels it, it doesn't want to start. It will crank, seems to catch, sputters and spits and then dies. The first time that it happened I suspected that she had waited till it got too low on fuel and was sucking up condensation water in the tank. And that she had used a questionable gas station. Believe it or not, there are some stations that will not use filters in their pumps because they cost money. I have had her dump in a couple cans of Sea Foam, not at the same time. BUT its happened a few more times, most recently yesterday. This time she told me that she had a half tank when she re-fueled. Did the same thing. Now, my guess is that while pumping the gas in, its kicking up crap thats in the tank. Rock Auto lists a "fuel strainer" PN AIRTEX FS246 . Problem is I've NEVER been able to find a Haynes, Chiltons, or Mitchells manual for the damn car! Does anyone have a link to one? Or instructions on how to get the pump out? Or other thoughts to debunk my idea?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
#3
Yeah, what shipo said. Don't really understand how all this narrow minded conversation about fuel filters and strainers and crap in the fuel tank and air filters clogged with llama hair, ok, maybe not the llamas.
Cpt, if you wish to spend your money on some type of filter, go ahead. I hate to admit that I have been working on vehicles since 1974. Yes, I'm, old. I'm comfortable with it. It took some time to get used to extending oil change from 2000 to 3000 to 5000 to the all new 7500 mile intervals. Thank god it was gradual and my poor brain little didn't explode.
It has been a long time since I had to do any type of repair that would have been saved if a fuel filter had been installed. My lawn mower doesn't even have a filter. As far as your hard start problem, I would look real hard at the EVAP purge valve. If it sticks open, the intake will fill with vapors as the vehicle is being refueled. Starting it afterwards is the equivalent to a flooded engine. Since it may be a intermittent failure and hard to prove, I would still put my money on a purge valve than any filter the vehicle has.
Cpt, if you wish to spend your money on some type of filter, go ahead. I hate to admit that I have been working on vehicles since 1974. Yes, I'm, old. I'm comfortable with it. It took some time to get used to extending oil change from 2000 to 3000 to 5000 to the all new 7500 mile intervals. Thank god it was gradual and my poor brain little didn't explode.
It has been a long time since I had to do any type of repair that would have been saved if a fuel filter had been installed. My lawn mower doesn't even have a filter. As far as your hard start problem, I would look real hard at the EVAP purge valve. If it sticks open, the intake will fill with vapors as the vehicle is being refueled. Starting it afterwards is the equivalent to a flooded engine. Since it may be a intermittent failure and hard to prove, I would still put my money on a purge valve than any filter the vehicle has.
#5
Cpt Marvel,
The fuel pump is kept cool by the fuel. No fuel, the internals begin to weld together. The Airtex is the fuel filter sock that is connected to the pump. You must have a clean sock.
The sock is a crude filter. Injected engines rely on tiny holes in the injectors. A carb has holes that are many times larger. Dirt in your fuel will clog the injectors, but hopefully will clog the sock filter first. Pull the fuel pump.
The fuel pump is kept cool by the fuel. No fuel, the internals begin to weld together. The Airtex is the fuel filter sock that is connected to the pump. You must have a clean sock.
The sock is a crude filter. Injected engines rely on tiny holes in the injectors. A carb has holes that are many times larger. Dirt in your fuel will clog the injectors, but hopefully will clog the sock filter first. Pull the fuel pump.
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