We have a knocking noise under our car. A mechanic is telling us we need new struts and the cost is $1200!

I remember reading somewhere that it could just be a rubber gasket type thing that needs to be replaced, costing much less.

Anyone have any advice that could lead me to the best course of direction? Second opinions? Links to articles?

Thanks,

Phil

 

I have read issues with Mazda 5 shocks.
Unfortunately you are not giving us enough info (damm rookies).
Is the price for all or just front or just back?
Year? Mileage?
I would go aftermarket before Mazda ones.
Try to read some threads on this forum under Mazda 5: Mazda5 - Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums
I can't really help you on this other than what i've done already.
Hopefully, someone with actual Mazda 5 can help you after you supply us more info!
I will be gone rest of day!

 

I have a 2007 Mazda 5 which this week I had a quote for new struts. It was for $700. That is because the driver's side is leaking. The creaking noise you describe is that only happening when you go over speed bumps? If it is then you will need to replace the front sway bar bushings or spray penetrating oil on the bushings. The noise stopped for me when I did that but I have on order new bushings on the way. Also have new struts on order and plan to install everything myself. The new KYB struts online cost $170 for the pair.

 

If it's rear shocks then just do them yourself, they are only held on by three bolts, it's silly to pay someone to do them for you. As has been said fit aftermarket ones, the Mazda ones are junk.

 

Depending on how my Mazda feels after I install the new front struts, I may also replace the rear shocks myself. I have over 82K miles on the vehicle but when my local mechanic checked the shocks, we only found the left front strut leaking oil and all the others seem fine and not weak. I should be receiving the struts later today and the front/rear sway bar bushings this Friday. Looks like I have a bit of a project this weekend.

 

I replaced the front struts today. The originals were both bad. One was leaking and the other had no rebound. Took a few hours to replace both but worth it. Drives like new. Now to take it to a shop for a wheel alignment. It was worth doing it myself. Saved me over $540 by doing it myself. Just be sure to have access to a 17mm box end wrench to remove the nut on top of the strut and a big hammer to remove the strut from the control arm..

 

Mechanics Best Friend, LOL
Great.

 

Nice going mate. Not sure if he US car is the same but if you still get a knock from the front it will be the droplinks - they are cheap as chips and easy to fit. £20 a pair in UK (ebay)

 

I like the big hammer highlight. Definitely was a big help. First strut took me a couple of hours of busting through the grime and dirt. Second strut only took 20 minutes to remove. Just replaced the rear sway bar bushings and rotated the tires. Trying to figure out how to remove the front sway bar bushings. Just read the TSB from Mazda on how to remove the front sway bar bushings. I will have to give it a try. At least I can feel a big difference with the new rear bushings. The original ones felt like a soft rubber eraser. The new ones are poly bushings which are much, much harder. I can't wait to try to tackle the front bushings tomorrow. I am certain they need to be replaced and will eliminate the last of the suspension noise in the front. Will be doing the rear shocks when the parts arrive next week. Then my wife's Mazda will be riding like new. Maybe better especially when all the poly sway bar bushings are installed.

 

NOPE.
Poly Bushings need lubrication almost yearly or they will squeek. First pic is poly, second one is rubber.





There are two broad categories of bushings: those that rotate and those than remain stationary. The rotational bushings should be rubber. The sway bar bushings are in the rotational category!
Rubber bushings are always appropriate. Polyurethane should be kept to bushings that do not move. Due to rubber's unique characteristics, it may feel quieter and smoother than polyurethane. This is a natural phenomena and does not necessarily mean that rubber has worse performance characteristics.

From: Bushings: Rubber vs. Polyurethane - Subaru Impreza WRX STI Forums: IWSTI.com

poly bushing are great if you want to have a stiff suspension and plan to drive the car hard. The down side is the poly bushings are hard and do not absorb road shock like rubber bushings. That means the shock is transmitted through the suspension to the body. Poly bushings also have a tendency to squeak.

In sway bar mount applications, most squeaking comes from not cleaning the sway bar prior to installing the bushings and not using our “squeak proof” grease!
The original rubber bushing or mount was fairly soft which helped to attenuate noise and vibration that is generated by the tires and road surface. Increasing the hardness of the bushing either with harder rubber, urethane or even bronze, will allow more transmission of noise and vibration. Some manufacturers formulate the hardness and design to reduce this effect. A softer urethane bushing allows the vehicle to perform better without the harshness, even over the same hardness rubber piece.

Guess it depends on what you got and how you installed them.
ClickMe for proper install grease
Good luck.