Mazda 3 Manual Transmission Problems
#41
10-09-2013, 12:32 PM
You're thinking of the Vulcan engine, which came later. The original Probe GT (early 90's) was a Mazda MX-6 under the skin, with a Mazda engine.
I'm not saying Mazda is the be-all end-all, btw. We WERE having a specific discussion about specific topics...
And no, skyactiv is NOT new technology. It is a GROUPING of existing technologies. The direct injection and several other aspects of the engine allow the use of higher than typical compression. Compression ratio is something that is CHOSEN based on other factors. In general, you go with the highest compression that your design will allow , on the fuel you plan to use, that will not allow unacceptable detonation, because all-else being equal, the higher the compression ratio, the higher the efficiency. The reason the new Mazda3 2.0 has more torque/power in the lower rpm range is because they were able to raise the compression from 12 or 12.5:1 (forget what the current one is) to 13:1. They were able to do this by slightly lengthening the nose and thereby being able to fit the 'basket of snakes' (4-2-1).
I already talked about the 4-2-1 Fail in the first Mazda 3, as it was not present, because the engineers needed more time to figure it out, as production was rushed as per my Post #30!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dude: Trust me on this one. I have two engineering degrees, 25 years of experience in aerospace engineering and have been into cars and turning wrenches for 35 years.
I'm not saying Mazda is the be-all end-all, btw. We WERE having a specific discussion about specific topics...
And no, skyactiv is NOT new technology. It is a GROUPING of existing technologies. The direct injection and several other aspects of the engine allow the use of higher than typical compression. Compression ratio is something that is CHOSEN based on other factors. In general, you go with the highest compression that your design will allow , on the fuel you plan to use, that will not allow unacceptable detonation, because all-else being equal, the higher the compression ratio, the higher the efficiency. The reason the new Mazda3 2.0 has more torque/power in the lower rpm range is because they were able to raise the compression from 12 or 12.5:1 (forget what the current one is) to 13:1. They were able to do this by slightly lengthening the nose and thereby being able to fit the 'basket of snakes' (4-2-1).
I already talked about the 4-2-1 Fail in the first Mazda 3, as it was not present, because the engineers needed more time to figure it out, as production was rushed as per my Post #30!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dude: Trust me on this one. I have two engineering degrees, 25 years of experience in aerospace engineering and have been into cars and turning wrenches for 35 years.
The point being this is still new stuff within the last few years in the mass market. This is the point I am making, and you still can't figure that out with your F'n Degrees!
They were rushed in to production and Failed on the 4-2-1, do you think Mazda can make quick changes from year 1 to year 2 on stuff that happens in the late half of the year, and with all the paper work, they actually have time to put it in to production? Think not! YEAR 3 is the magic!
Here is another great example of useless engineers and Mazda's slow response time: My exhaust on my 2006. It was not changed in 2007.
Did it cause problems-----YES. This is an example of extremely poor flow that was not changed in 2007 after it went out in 2006.
For more info on this, read: https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...-design-28940/
I hope the engineer/personnel who let that exhaust go in to production got fired!
Last edited by UseYourNoggin; 10-09-2013 at 02:34 PM. Reason: EXHAUST EXAMPLE
#43
10-14-2013, 02:06 PM
Mazda 3 skyactive 6spd manual trans update
Update on my post about our 2013 mazda 3 skyactive 6spd manual transmission. Just got it back after having the 3rd trans put in at 3500 miles, The car is still locking out of 3rd and 5th gear, Thumping in 2nd, But hey they dealer says it has a break in period. I say "BS" And here's the craziest part of all, the car is getting 49.2 mpg's I think the car is seriously messed up. And before someone tries to tell me this can't be so. My wife and I have over 68 yrs of experience driving mainly standards and have never and I mean never had an issue with any of our manual trans. Wish Mazda would just admit there is a serious flaw that needs to be addressed, Will be seeking lemon law on this one soon. Good luck to those going through the same thing.
#44
10-15-2013, 06:54 AM
At this point, since it is the 3rd time and the problem is not fixed, you should be able to qualify under the lemon law. I would go for a new car. In my experience, once something major is disturbed and no longer factory-installed, it is never the same again... Has the regional factory rep. looked at this?
#45
02-24-2014, 03:20 PM
i have similar problem with "notcy" shifting sometimes in 2014 Mazda 3. They did a service bulletin on it which helps but until car runs and gets real warm has this issue off and on. I'm thinking the fluid maybe issue on this model. If anyone else has this issue let me know, espcecially if dealer had a fix.
#46
02-25-2014, 04:26 PM
Skyactiv manual transmission problems
My 2013 manual 6 speed popped out of 3rd. The dealer finally replaced the tranny on 8/20/2013 @ 3402 miles. Just turned 7000 miles without further problems. Shifting is a little stiff initially in cold weather here in CT. Please advise what the Technical Service Bulletin said? The TSB#?
#47
02-26-2014, 06:52 AM
car back in shop again so i'll have to see what happens and update you later. the service bulletin on the 2014 model i assume since ihave a 2014 model. they basically did some adjustments in the car under the shifter. not sure what they did but it was a bulletin they followed.
#48
02-26-2014, 11:50 AM
I believe the trans is the same from the '12 to the '14. Tuning and some other minor things aside, I think the only major engine/transaxle change was the addition of the basket-o-snakes.
In any event, I believe that many of us are having issues, to one degree or another, with notchiness. Can someone post the TSB or at least the number?
If there's just an adjustment to be made, I'd much rather do it, than take to the stealership and at the very least, I think we'd all like to see what the problem is...
In any event, I believe that many of us are having issues, to one degree or another, with notchiness. Can someone post the TSB or at least the number?
If there's just an adjustment to be made, I'd much rather do it, than take to the stealership and at the very least, I think we'd all like to see what the problem is...
#49
02-27-2014, 07:16 AM
TSB on shifting issues 2014 mazda 3
Brought car in again. they road tested and called mazda CA. they tell me this is normal and other cars drive similar or worse and there are no other adjustments they can do . but i should watch it if it gets worse. The TSB they did the first time is 05-007/13. The removed center console and positioned shift cable as per bulletin. My problems are minor most the time but wonder if it will get worse or better after more break in. I have 2200 miles on it now. Also wonder if transmission fluid they used is the problem. sounds to simple right ..
#50
02-28-2014, 07:10 AM
I can't find anything online for that TSB, either by number or description, even on the government site...
Gotta say, though, in my case at least, the crunchiness definitely seems to be internal to the transmission. I say this because the throw is positive and SEEMS to be unencumbered and the problem occurs when the trans is cold, is commensurate with temperature and pretty much goes away completely when the trans is warm. In fact, when it's warm, shifting is pretty buttery.
Again, in my case, the problem is not annoying enough to do something immediately, however I believe I will switch to either Redline or Amsoil, at some point. The oil will eventually require changing anyway and the price is about a push...
Gotta say, though, in my case at least, the crunchiness definitely seems to be internal to the transmission. I say this because the throw is positive and SEEMS to be unencumbered and the problem occurs when the trans is cold, is commensurate with temperature and pretty much goes away completely when the trans is warm. In fact, when it's warm, shifting is pretty buttery.
Again, in my case, the problem is not annoying enough to do something immediately, however I believe I will switch to either Redline or Amsoil, at some point. The oil will eventually require changing anyway and the price is about a push...