How does the car hold up at 100-150K miles?
#21
I'm with John on this one,
"In an interference engine, or one whose valves extend into the path of the piston, failure of the timing belt (or timing chain) invariably results in costly and, in some cases, irreparable engine damage, as some valves will be held open when they should not be and thus will be struck by the pistons."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timing_belt
Dragos
"In an interference engine, or one whose valves extend into the path of the piston, failure of the timing belt (or timing chain) invariably results in costly and, in some cases, irreparable engine damage, as some valves will be held open when they should not be and thus will be struck by the pistons."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timing_belt
Dragos
#22
Actually john-john, you've got that backwards... a common mistake.
Interference means that there is enough space between the valves and pistons that they won't collide should the belt/chain break.
e.g. When rebuilding an engine, you measure (plastigage) to check for the interference (space) between the bearings and crankshaft, or connecting rod you are checking.
A non-interference engine is one that will sustain damage should the belt go while at speed.
- Inteference = The valve faces and piston domes on some cylinders WILL collide if the valve train stops while the bottom end is still running.
- non-Interference engine = a "free-running' engine.
#23
I'm with John on this one,
"In an interference engine, or one whose valves extend into the path of the piston, failure of the timing belt (or timing chain) invariably results in costly and, in some cases, irreparable engine damage, as some valves will be held open when they should not be and thus will be struck by the pistons."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timing_belt
Dragos
"In an interference engine, or one whose valves extend into the path of the piston, failure of the timing belt (or timing chain) invariably results in costly and, in some cases, irreparable engine damage, as some valves will be held open when they should not be and thus will be struck by the pistons."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timing_belt
Dragos
#24
Interference vs. noninterference.
Actually john-john, you've got that backwards... a common mistake.
Interference means that there is enough space between the valves and pistons that they won't collide should the belt/chain break.
e.g. When rebuilding an engine, you measure (plastigage) to check for the interference (space) between the bearings and crankshaft, or connecting rod you are checking.
A non-interference engine is one that will sustain damage should the belt go while at speed.
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?br...cation_id=3487
#25
I'm with John on this one,
"In an interference engine, or one whose valves extend into the path of the piston, failure of the timing belt (or timing chain) invariably results in costly and, in some cases, irreparable engine damage, as some valves will be held open when they should not be and thus will be struck by the pistons."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timing_belt
Dragos
"In an interference engine, or one whose valves extend into the path of the piston, failure of the timing belt (or timing chain) invariably results in costly and, in some cases, irreparable engine damage, as some valves will be held open when they should not be and thus will be struck by the pistons."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timing_belt
Dragos
Sorry Richard, I have to disagree with you on that one.
- Inteference = The valve faces and piston domes on some cylinders WILL collide if the valve train stops while the bottom end is still running.
- non-Interference engine = a "free-running' engine.
#26
Well, see? I told you it was confusing... even for me! 'Sorry 'bout that. That's what I get for not checking my facts before responding at 4AM... actually 3:30AM.
But I still contend that the nomenclature is incorrect.
OH, and Gary, I think if you look you will find you have 15's on the base model 3i, not 16's. They only came as an alloy on Mazda3's. Because the brakes are smaller, the 3i is the only model that will support 15's.
Last edited by virgin1; 11-14-2010 at 05:05 PM.
#28
The Forum
Well, see? I told you it was confusing... even for me! 'Sorry 'bout that. That's what I get for not checking my facts before responding at 4AM... actually 3:30AM.
But I still contend that the nomenclature is incorrect.
OH, and Gary, I think if you look you will find you have 15's on the base model 3i, not 16's. They only came as an alloy on Mazda3's. Because the brakes are smaller, the 3i is the only model that will support 15's.
us, we are all on the same side. Some of us are quite knowledgeable,
some know something (me), and others less. If a member trips up, no
big deal, we correct the mistake and all benefit. Personally, the auto
industry, when they sell us a shoddy product, fail to correct a defect
or are just plain dishonest, become the foe. In every car purchase I
made, my money never broke down, consequently I just want fair
and honest treatment from them if a problem arises.
John Reilly, Baldwin, NY.
#29
I've been doing some research on the '09 Mazda 3, S Sport Trim (5Spd) and it fits the bill pretty well. Small, sporty, decent MPG, can fit a bike in the back, good price etc. Well the last couple of days I have been digging into it a bit more, reading all the road tests, checking out a bunch of Mazda forums and there seem to be some issues with it.
Air bag sensor recall
Power steering pump recall
Engine mounts
Brakes/suspension clunking noise
CEL on randomly
Driver's window AUTO down
A/C not very cold
Glove box latch
Clock not very accurate
Rattles in center console, doors
I'm not really worried about any of them. The big ones are recalls, the rattles and creaks I can live with and everything in between I can deal with myself. However, is this the tip of the iceberg of things to come in the future? Are these problems fairly common on these cars or am I looking into this too much? I guess some of these could be attributed to a new model being introduced and just working out the bugs. Do the later models (2009) have a better fit and finish?
A few more questions,
How does the car handle in the snow? I imagine the OEM tires would have to be replaced...
Is the 2.3L an interference engine?
Is the car fairly easy to work on? From the pictures the 2.3L looks pretty cramped (the turbo in MazdaSpeed even worse), but haven't had a chance to see it in person yet.
Those of you who have a 2004-2009 Mazda 3 with high mileage, how does the car hold up? Any other problems that those I stumbled on?
Basically I'm looking for a reliable car that will last and a solid drivetrain is a must. Planning on getting one with 20K or so and keeping until 150-180K miles (10years) , I'll keep everything stock, no mods. I do all the maintenance on my cars, but I'd rather not have to deal with a head gaskets, leaking piston rings, etc down the road. Should I keep looking?
Also looking at the 2007 Subaru Impreza Wagon (MAYBE (big maybe) WRX, but not STi) so if you owned both I'd really appreciate some feedback.
Thanks
Dragos
Air bag sensor recall
Power steering pump recall
Engine mounts
Brakes/suspension clunking noise
CEL on randomly
Driver's window AUTO down
A/C not very cold
Glove box latch
Clock not very accurate
Rattles in center console, doors
I'm not really worried about any of them. The big ones are recalls, the rattles and creaks I can live with and everything in between I can deal with myself. However, is this the tip of the iceberg of things to come in the future? Are these problems fairly common on these cars or am I looking into this too much? I guess some of these could be attributed to a new model being introduced and just working out the bugs. Do the later models (2009) have a better fit and finish?
A few more questions,
How does the car handle in the snow? I imagine the OEM tires would have to be replaced...
Is the 2.3L an interference engine?
Is the car fairly easy to work on? From the pictures the 2.3L looks pretty cramped (the turbo in MazdaSpeed even worse), but haven't had a chance to see it in person yet.
Those of you who have a 2004-2009 Mazda 3 with high mileage, how does the car hold up? Any other problems that those I stumbled on?
Basically I'm looking for a reliable car that will last and a solid drivetrain is a must. Planning on getting one with 20K or so and keeping until 150-180K miles (10years) , I'll keep everything stock, no mods. I do all the maintenance on my cars, but I'd rather not have to deal with a head gaskets, leaking piston rings, etc down the road. Should I keep looking?
Also looking at the 2007 Subaru Impreza Wagon (MAYBE (big maybe) WRX, but not STi) so if you owned both I'd really appreciate some feedback.
Thanks
Dragos
wow.. I had three of those issues.
Brakes/suspension clunking noise
A/C not very cold
Power steering pump whining noise very loud.
this is on my 2010 mazda 3 HB 2.5 i had little over 3 months now. NOT HAPPY
But its a fun little car.
#30
Well, see? I told you it was confusing... even for me! 'Sorry 'bout that. That's what I get for not checking my facts before responding at 4AM... actually 3:30AM.
But I still contend that the nomenclature is incorrect.
OH, and Gary, I think if you look you will find you have 15's on the base model 3i, not 16's. They only came as an alloy on Mazda3's. Because the brakes are smaller, the 3i is the only model that will support 15's.