How does the car hold up at 100-150K miles?
#11
11-08-2010, 04:46 PM
I am coming up on 50k miles on mine. Here are my thoughts to your concerns.
Power steering recall: I have the letter. Just waiting to be told when to bring it in. I have heard a wooshing sound a couple of times but not other issues.
Engine mounts: I haven’t noticed anything.
Brakes / suspension clunking noise: I have something clunking in the rear. I thought it was the bushings on my aftermarket sway bar but now it doesn’t seem to be. I am wondering if the upper shock mount might need to be tightened for some reason. No issue with brakes.
A/C not very cold: Yeah but I hardly ever use it. I use the windows and sunroof mostly.
Clock not very accurate: Really? Is this a real concern?
Rattles in center console: I have two. One is the spring behind the e-brake button. The other I think is a nickel that dropped through the cup holder.
The other issues listed: Either never heard of them or have no issue.
Snow handling: It seems ok to me.
What’s an interference engine?
Easy to work on / cramped engine bay: I haven’t noticed really. It doesn’t seem all that cramped to me and I haven’t done too much really to say that it is hard to work on. Everything I’ve done so far seems pretty straightforward.
Other issues: My EGR went out but was replaced under warranty. Put clear bra film over your fog lights cause they are really expensive to replace. Noticed today that my spring hangers are rusty. Nothing else though.
I like my car a lot. Now if I could just get rid of the noised mentioned above.
Power steering recall: I have the letter. Just waiting to be told when to bring it in. I have heard a wooshing sound a couple of times but not other issues.
Engine mounts: I haven’t noticed anything.
Brakes / suspension clunking noise: I have something clunking in the rear. I thought it was the bushings on my aftermarket sway bar but now it doesn’t seem to be. I am wondering if the upper shock mount might need to be tightened for some reason. No issue with brakes.
A/C not very cold: Yeah but I hardly ever use it. I use the windows and sunroof mostly.
Clock not very accurate: Really? Is this a real concern?
Rattles in center console: I have two. One is the spring behind the e-brake button. The other I think is a nickel that dropped through the cup holder.
The other issues listed: Either never heard of them or have no issue.
Snow handling: It seems ok to me.
What’s an interference engine?
Easy to work on / cramped engine bay: I haven’t noticed really. It doesn’t seem all that cramped to me and I haven’t done too much really to say that it is hard to work on. Everything I’ve done so far seems pretty straightforward.
Other issues: My EGR went out but was replaced under warranty. Put clear bra film over your fog lights cause they are really expensive to replace. Noticed today that my spring hangers are rusty. Nothing else though.
I like my car a lot. Now if I could just get rid of the noised mentioned above.
#12
11-08-2010, 11:51 PM
I should add its a cramped engine bay if your trying to do something on the block i.e replace the starter (2nd one im replacing), intake mani, but if for some reason the rad has to be removed it would free up ALOT of space in the front, the stupid shroud and fan makes doing things up front and real pita
#13
11-11-2010, 02:29 PM
I forgot to mention the snow handling. Your best bet is to get a set of snow tires. If you can get it moving, this car is all over the road. I don't have stability control , so I don't know how well the stability and traction control work in the snow. I had a set of Nokian Tyres, and they were awesome in the snow. I had complete control, and the car just plowed through the snow. I could drive 60mph on a snow covered road comfortably.
#14
11-11-2010, 04:38 PM
I forgot to mention the snow handling. Your best bet is to get a set of snow tires. If you can get it moving, this car is all over the road. I don't have stability control , so I don't know how well the stability and traction control work in the snow. I had a set of Nokian Tyres, and they were awesome in the snow. I had complete control, and the car just plowed through the snow. I could drive 60mph on a snow covered road comfortably.
#15
11-11-2010, 09:08 PM
Mazda3s from the factory handle like crap in winter weather due to the nasty Goodyear Eagle RS-A tires. The good news is that simply by putting a set of high quality all-season tires (I'm currently running Michelin Pilot Sport A/Ss), the car is a piece of cake to drive in deep snow with no control issues. Don't get me wrong, I am an advocate of winter tires, I'm just saying that even up here in New Hampshire they aren't a "must" for winter driving.
BTW, I hated those Toyos. The car has Michelin Pilot Exalto all season tires now and they've been AWESOME (except for the snow part, I've never driven it in deep snow so I don't know).
#16
11-11-2010, 09:24 PM
Am I the only person in the world that got a Mazda 3 brand new with Toyo tires instead of Good Year? Seems like everyone on here talks about their factory installed Good Years and I've never heard any different.
BTW, I hated those Toyos. The car has Michelin Pilot Exalto all season tires now and they've been AWESOME (except for the snow part, I've never driven it in deep snow so I don't know).
BTW, I hated those Toyos. The car has Michelin Pilot Exalto all season tires now and they've been AWESOME (except for the snow part, I've never driven it in deep snow so I don't know).
#18
11-12-2010, 10:26 AM
The Michelins hug the road like crazy. I've swerved worse than I did with the Proxies... no issues
#19
11-13-2010, 03:09 AM
I've been doing some research on the '09 Mazda 3, S Sport Trim (5Spd) and it fits the bill pretty well. Small, sporty, decent MPG, can fit a bike in the back, good price etc. Well the last couple of days I have been digging into it a bit more, reading all the road tests, checking out a bunch of Mazda forums and there seem to be some issues with it.
Air bag sensor recall
Power steering pump recall
Engine mounts
Brakes/suspension clunking noise
CEL on randomly
Driver's window AUTO down
A/C not very cold
Glove box latch
Clock not very accurate
Rattles in center console, doors
I'm not really worried about any of them. The big ones are recalls, the rattles and creaks I can live with and everything in between I can deal with myself. However, is this the tip of the iceberg of things to come in the future? Are these problems fairly common on these cars or am I looking into this too much? I guess some of these could be attributed to a new model being introduced and just working out the bugs. Do the later models (2009) have a better fit and finish?
A few more questions,
How does the car handle in the snow? I imagine the OEM tires would have to be replaced...
Is the 2.3L an interference engine?
Is the car fairly easy to work on? From the pictures the 2.3L looks pretty cramped (the turbo in MazdaSpeed even worse), but haven't had a chance to see it in person yet.
Those of you who have a 2004-2009 Mazda 3 with high mileage, how does the car hold up? Any other problems that those I stumbled on?
Basically I'm looking for a reliable car that will last and a solid drivetrain is a must. Planning on getting one with 20K or so and keeping until 150-180K miles (10years) , I'll keep everything stock, no mods. I do all the maintenance on my cars, but I'd rather not have to deal with a head gaskets, leaking piston rings, etc down the road. Should I keep looking?
Also looking at the 2007 Subaru Impreza Wagon (MAYBE (big maybe) WRX, but not STi) so if you owned both I'd really appreciate some feedback.
Thanks
Dragos
Air bag sensor recall
Power steering pump recall
Engine mounts
Brakes/suspension clunking noise
CEL on randomly
Driver's window AUTO down
A/C not very cold
Glove box latch
Clock not very accurate
Rattles in center console, doors
I'm not really worried about any of them. The big ones are recalls, the rattles and creaks I can live with and everything in between I can deal with myself. However, is this the tip of the iceberg of things to come in the future? Are these problems fairly common on these cars or am I looking into this too much? I guess some of these could be attributed to a new model being introduced and just working out the bugs. Do the later models (2009) have a better fit and finish?
A few more questions,
How does the car handle in the snow? I imagine the OEM tires would have to be replaced...
Is the 2.3L an interference engine?
Is the car fairly easy to work on? From the pictures the 2.3L looks pretty cramped (the turbo in MazdaSpeed even worse), but haven't had a chance to see it in person yet.
Those of you who have a 2004-2009 Mazda 3 with high mileage, how does the car hold up? Any other problems that those I stumbled on?
Basically I'm looking for a reliable car that will last and a solid drivetrain is a must. Planning on getting one with 20K or so and keeping until 150-180K miles (10years) , I'll keep everything stock, no mods. I do all the maintenance on my cars, but I'd rather not have to deal with a head gaskets, leaking piston rings, etc down the road. Should I keep looking?
Also looking at the 2007 Subaru Impreza Wagon (MAYBE (big maybe) WRX, but not STi) so if you owned both I'd really appreciate some feedback.
Thanks
Dragos
a timing belt. Best info I could come with is the chain "should last the
life of the car", however I would checked with Mazda service on this one.
For the difference on interference vs. non interference (free running).
1. Interference engine-Timing belt or chain breaks the valves and pistons
collide. Costly repair.
2. Non interference-No damage, timing marks have to be set up again and
belt or chain replaced.
For those of you with timing belts, Gates has a pretty good web site
indicating interference or non.
#20
11-13-2010, 03:30 AM
Actually john-john, you've got that backwards... a common mistake.
Interference means that there is enough space between the valves and pistons that they won't collide should the belt/chain break.
e.g. When rebuilding an engine, you measure (plastigage) to check for the interference (space) between the bearings and crankshaft, or connecting rod you are checking.
A non-interference engine is one that will sustain damage should the belt go while at speed.