After work, I had a very small problem with my car. It's cold and was probably in the teens when i was in my car. I turned the key, and the car didn't start. I could turn it all the way and the engine wasn't making any noise. All my usual lights were on, and the radio was on, so i knew my battery wasn't dead. As i turned the key a second time, i noticed the engine immobilizer light was rapidly blinking. It has never done that before. I took the key out and put it back in. The car started, and i drove home. The key used was the key i have used since i first got the car in 05. I don't know if it was the cold weather that might have caused this glitch. I just hope this isn't the first of many to come. I am getting close to 100k miles.

 

I've heard that the sensor that detects the chip in the key can go bad and you'll begin to have troubles. This happened to someone with a car other than a Mazda but I think the immobilizer system pretty much works the same across brands.

 

As long as it's just the key. If it starts doing that more often then i'll just use the second key that came with the car. That one still has the rubber wrapped around the key. I've never used it. Thanks for letting me know.

 

Maybe, but the sensor I'm talking about is in the steering column, not on the key. So if that goes, the new key won't help............

 

from what i gather on these vehicles the receiver around the key recepticle for the immobiliser can be spiked if when you turn to crank and there is a high variation in the voltage at the receiver then the signal to disarm and crank can be dropped (so immobilised) although what i have come across is cranking but not starting as (no fuel or spark) manufacturers very rarely immobilise the starter (i may be wrong on mazda)

 

My 2007 Mazda 3 GT 2.3 (Manual Tranny) died on me while driving. Wouldn't start and had the security indicator light flashing. Had to get it towed to dealership.

Next morning, dealer started it fine, put it up on the hoist to do an oil change, but it wouldn't start when they wanted to get it out of the shop. They had the same problem I did.

Now the tech has been looking at it for over 9 hours and they don't know what to do. They said they could try replacing the wiring harness under the dashboard ($1270!!!) but that might not be the problem.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should do with this car? My warranty is done.

 

HOLY S***!!!!! $1270 and it might not even be the fix. Luckily I haven't had the problem since that one time. I just hit 99k miles yesterday, so I'm getting a little worried about any problems that might pop up. Sorry I couldn't help you out, but keep us posted on any news.

 

So they called me and now they said that they're pretty sure its the wiring harness under the dash. They say this because if they jiggle it, they can start the car, and then if they jiggle it a different way, it won't start. Frick.

So now they say $1270 for the part and 8.5 hours to install it. So quote is around $2200 to get my car running again. Never mind the 9 hours they already put into troubleshooting. IS this Mazda 3 going to cost me $3000 by the time I can drive it again?!? Son of a ....

 

Just got rid of a 99 Olds Alero for the same problem. Sometimes it would start and sometimes it wouldn't. Not a good feeling. Does anyone know if this is the same passlock type system that GM uses? I know a lot of different manufacturers use this system just don't know if Mazda does. Any immobilizer system should be able to be shut off by request of the owner. If you live in a low crime area this is just a problem waiting to happen.

 

So what has happened? I am now in this situation, 6 hours at $115 so far and they are still following diagnostic diagrams ...