Is the transmission fluid of Mazdas supposed to run darker than typical or should it be just like any other car?

Thanks

 

Mileage?
Standard or Automatic!

 

90k, auto

 

90,000 kms or miles?

There is no specified replacement schedule, however If you use a mechanic with half a brain they should let you know when its needed.

 

As far as i am concerned, auto tranny fluid should be changed every 50,000 km.
Sooner if you drive alot in the city and in extreme weather situations!
It's also best to have an external cooler!

Good articles: How often should the automatic transmission fluid... — Yahoo! Autos
and Flush it or Forget it |*MotorWeek

 

Thanks, wasnt sure if japanese cars/mazdas ran darker than usual or if it needs to be changed at the same time as every other car.

and 90k miles, sorry.

 

I thought it was a 5 year / 60K change - mines a manual and it was on my service schedule for last year

 

We are talking automatic on this thread. Manuals last longer than automatics, and i'm actually surprised it was on a service schedule as the automatic is not because they claim lifelong fluid. Don't even get me started on lifelong fluids.
For a good article on tranny fluids read: How often should the automatic transmission fluid... — Yahoo! Autos

here are some hilites;
At elevated operating temperatures, ATF oxidizes, turns brown and takes on a smell like burnt toast. As heat destroys the fluid's lubricating qualities and friction characteristics, varnish begins to form on internal parts (such as the valve body) which interferes with the operation.

As a rule of thumb, every 20 degree increase in operating temperature above 175 degrees F. cuts the life of the fluid in half!
At 220 degrees, which is commonly encountered in many transmissions, the fluid is only good for about 25,000 miles.
According to the Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association, 90% of ALL transmission failures are caused by overheating. And most of these can be blamed on worn out fluid that should have been replaced.

Example: ATF that enters the radiator cooler at 300 degrees F. leaves at 240 to 270 degrees F., which is only a 10 to 20% drop in temperature, and is nowhere good enough for extended fluid life.
An auxiliary transmission fluid cooler is easy to install and can substantially lower fluid operating temperatures. The plate/fin type cooler is somewhat more efficient than the tube and fin design, but either can lower fluid temperatures anywhere from 80 to 140 degrees when installed in series with the stock unit. Typical cooling efficiencies run in the 35 to 50% range.

 

I'm with you on this one mate - its unbelievable these days what manufacturers do to try and show reduced life service costs and logic says an auto should be done more regularly

I must admit to not doing mine manual last year but its due service next month and will be done then.