We have a problem with our 2001 tribute. It tends to stall after the engine has been running, then turned off, then restarted. It will start but won't stay idled. It will just drop rpms unless you keep the throttle going. This is especially a problem when it is hot outside. This problem happens at random and sometimes not at all for a month or so, but then will drive us crazy for a week. We have had two or three mechanics check it out, but when checked out everything is normal. Does anyone have any idea what the problem can be? Please Help!

 

Would give you a 99% probability that you have a failing/sticking IAC valve rickscottsvrmc. Not a very uncommon issue in either the Tribute or Btruck with exactly as you describe. TheIAC or Idle Air Control valve does exactly what its name implies. It controls the rpm that your engine will run at an idle only. It it sticks or is failing then you will be able keep engine running by feathering the throttle but engine will stall if no external control is given. If you know where the valve is located then then next time it is acting up and not wanting to idle, give the valve a good tap with the handle of a screwdriver or some other tool and would bet that the idle will suddenly be normal. If you are not sure of location then give a post back and will take a pic of one so you can try this test.

 

Hello, I have exactly the same problem with my 2001 tribute. The mechanic could not find anything because it happened only twice and before I could drive to the mechanic it went normal again.

Would really appreciate if you could take a picture of the IAC position in case this happens when I am far from home.

 

my car stalls when in idle . It happens when I stop . And Also happens in reverse. Then some times it wont happen at all.The mech cant figure it out . Help

 

I decide to post to try and pass on some learned information.
My 2001 Tribute AT 3.0 V6 4/wheel dr began with a rough idle from a cold start after hours of sitting, then stalling when decelerating, foot off gas, and horrible gas mileage. After multiple certified technician troubleshooting and repair attempts, all of which cost money and lots of it, I began research for what could cause problems and be detected as symptoms but not be detected by conventional electronic measures, scanning computer and sensors.
The final culprit I determined was cracked upper and lower intake gaskets. This caused excessive fuel consumption by the engine 'sucking' in too much air and causing the computer to electronically adjust the gas intake which caused excessive carbon buildup which caused plug failure (2ea back side) and coil damage (1ea back side). All the 3 and 4 letter Sensors, EGR/DPFE/ECT/IAC/ABC/123/etc, were detected as being bad plus all the Oxygen Sensors were detected as bad and after continued excessive carbon buildup multiple items scanned as defective, and rightly so by being clogged, but these were not the initiating cause of the problems. But all these items had to be replaced in order to eliminate them from possible areas of interest. This scanning was performed by certified technicians at multiple locations. You would think someone would have picked up on looking at causes instead of just replacing items.
This is all to say there are these areas of interest in a combustible engine that even qualified technicians do not and can not locate because everyone is looking for the computer to tell them what is wrong. Shade tree mechanics is still a viable method but extremely difficult to utilize on today's engines with all the bells and whistles being listened to.
As only a suggestion, when a sensor is scanned and suggested for replacement get a confirmation of no charge if it does not fix the problem. There were multiple items replaced that possibly did not need replacing if the cause of the problem had been identified at the beginning.
Last word; have the upper and lower intake gaskets checked by having a qualified repairman spray a combustible solution spray around the gasket area. If cracked or deteriorated an engine performance change will take place proving gasket damage.
Total price for the above: over $1500
The gaskets cost $50 plus what labor to install. Everything else was master card!

 

My 2004 (Tribute) started to stall at idle. Found 2 vacuum hoses badly broken.
Both at the very rear/center/top on engine. One is a 20-30 degree angle about 5/8 inch by 3 inch. The other is at the end of the plastic line that goes from the front to rear of engine. I replaced the front elbow last year for same reason.
No need to pay Mazda price, just go to auto store and find a PVC hose that fits or use heater hose. For the front I used a PVC elbow #47028 (HELP brand at Autozone)

 

by any chance did you take any pics

 

Look up IAC (the idle air control valve) one can clean it oneself if your a bit savvy , my guess 1st , then whilst at it clean the MAF sensor and check vacuum hoses at the same time , good luck (and if it is any of those , you know where not to go the next time or also go with some Bananas)

 

Ooooops , did not look at the OP's date .