Good tip about the PCV valve change, i'll have to get me one of those sockets as I also have a V6 3.0 litre engine, but newer.
I do have another suggestion.
Please look closely at your exhaust. I have had misfire issues due to poor exhaust flow because of the poor design which led to changing of pre-cat and new crossover pipe. With your vehicle being older than mine, you may have pre-cat issues, however, where are your cel codes?.

Please read and look closely at the exhaust layout of mine and compare it to yours, read: https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...-design-28940/

Read: http://www.ebay.com/gds/Reasons-for-...2803746/g.html

Read: https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...3-0-ltr-30510/

 

I did pull the exhaust to check out the pre-cats. The rear looked good and clean. Nice clean visible honeycomb. The front did have a chunk in the pipe(approx. 3 1/2 inches long and 2 inch dia.) I looked deeper w/ my bore scope and didn't see any other obstructions, but I'm betting it's a little melted in there.

There are absolutely no CEL codes. The engine service light hasn't come on since I started searching for the problem. None have been stored.

I find it hard to believe that right after a light engine cleaning, the pre cats and or cat goes straight to Heck. I did test drive this car twice and it ran fine on both occasions(prior to the wash).

I guess I'll pull the exhaust and check it out.

Quick run down. Car now running, but starts to stall if you apply throttle.
Spark does have a bit of orange in it, but more blue than orange, say every third/fourth pulse(fire) of the coil pack. Definitely fuel, maybe I'll change out the fuel filter while messing w/ this thing.

I haven't tested the MAF for input and such. The car was running and I pulled the MAF connector and the car immediately died. I was under the impression that the car would idle without MAF input(?). Then it became a pain to start, final back to where I am now. Running at idle, stumbling w/ the slightest input of throttle. AARRRGGGGHHHHHH!!!!!!

I'm doing all this work for a young kid w/ NO money to spend, so I'm trying to keep parts cost down. If we can get this thing running for a few months, then he'll have enough cash to invest in new pre-cats and such. I just need this fixed, driving me nuts.

 

that's not a good sign.
Shocked you're not getting codes.
Do you have a crossover pipe or real dual exhaust with minimal crossover? Does it join at a "T" or does it point more like a proper "Y". I would like to see a pic of this area where this is, after the pre-cats.
What's your mileage?

 

No need to take the exhaust apart. Remove the upstream O2 sensors. easy as can be. There is a 90% probability that the fuel pump hose inside the tank simply has a hole in it. Why in the world you would spend soooooooo much time diagnosing it without putting a fuel pressure gauge on it is beyond me. I would have had it diagnosed in 10 minutes. If you google a picture of the fuel pump you will see the problem. Those plastic flex hoses split all the time.

 

Well, I think I got this sucker figured out. It was combo of little things.

The five old coil packs probably crapped out due to a little water from a seriously very light spray down, not even sprayed directly at then.

The the length of time that the number 4 and 5 (I even think #6) was going, have to check the engine codes retrieved from the shop that service the car 2 months ago). These suckers roasted the front pre cat.

I pulled both sensors last night and the car fired up and pulled hard, which if figured was going to happen. When I had #4,5 and 6 spark plugs out to recheck the condition I cranked the motor and it fired right up and ran.

The connector for the CKP was cover with oil and some had entered the connector.

The battery being on it's last leg.

The reason I didn't fuel with the fuel delivery system is because I knew it was getting tons of fuel. To the point I was worried about wiping the rings.

So, it was just a fluke that something that I didn't even touch was the culprit.
I could see the front pre cat had some issues, but it didn't look like it had separated from the housing. Never heard and rattling at attempted start ups.
I had driven the car approx. 30 miles prior taking ownership.

Well, at least I know that all the service items are done for 50K miles.

Thanks for all the help.

 

Glad you fot it going. Not burning all the fuel will destroy a converter pretty quick. Oil/gas does not conduct electricity so i doubt the CKP cared about it.

 

That's why i put all those links in there for you to read, especially the one on reasons for catalytic converter failure. Was hoping it could help.
You still didn't answer my question on your crossover pipe layout.
Car engine cleaning/detailing is a tricky thing that can lead to massive repair (as posted by hixx earlier which was great insight).

 

It's a box stock Mazda system. This isn't some play toy, fun road rocket; just a commuter I located for a kid w zero money. Thanks for the help. I am aware of the issues raw fuel entering the cats and combustion occurring inside, hence the worry and remove of the fuel system relays to try and limit fuel entering the system. The damage was done long before I ever got this car. Most likely while the previous owner travelled back and forth to Seattle, WA from WDC in preparation for their move. Crappy gas, misfiring coil packs and 10K miles = my headaches.
I just couldn't believe that one clogged pre cat could totally screw this up, considering had had driven the the thing to my place to work on it. Oh well, a learning experience.

Now on to the next project- 06 Mazda Speed6 w/ a rod through the block, a replacement engine and a friend who yesterday pulled the crank pulley off a perfectly good engine only to find out you should NEVER pull the crank pulley/balancer off the Ford/Mazda 2.3 Turbo motors. I get to do a front end tear down.

I'm sticking w/ my old Mazda and old Muscle cars (w/ a few vintage Italian cars in there also).

 

I have no idea how a stock box Mazda Tribute exhaust looks like. I personally don't care how it looks, but i'm trying to help you. You are missing the point! Just because it's stock, doesn't mean it's right! If you read the article link that i posted, you will see that a "T" shaped crossover pipe will cause misfire, pre-cat issues. I don't know when Mazda went to this design, but if you ignore this you will have more problems.
If the exhaust from one side meets the other one at a direct 90 degree "T" you will have exhaust flow issues. If it slightly flows like a "Y" you will be Ok as well as the "X".
The first pic is a "T" (stock Mazda exhaust) the second is the updated proper "Y". The change wasn't to enhance pocket rocket performance, but to solve the **** poor stock Mazda design that causes misfires! But the proper exhaust also gives better flow, hence performance. After wasting time changing plugs, injectors and other costly items, finally fixed the problem with the exhaust design change!



Here's a Good one:



MORE: https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...-design-28940/

 

hixx: I learn so much from you.

You are probably right that clean oil does not conduct electricity but used oil contains carbon from combustion and that can short out the spark plugs for example.