Most definitely didn't leave anything in the intake runners. Absolutely no water in the spark plug access point- i.e water entered around the coil pack boots. Interia switch? Not aware of one in the Tribute.
Got my code reader on it yesterday, ZERO codes stored. I checked for current/spark at the crank angle sensor- ZERO. So, between the PCM and the crank angle sensor no current. I didn't touch the wiring harness- just disconnected each coil pack as it change them out. One at a time and definitely didn't swap connectors, thus messing up the firing order.
Haven't pulled the O2 sensor. Was running fine and it would at least fire up, stumble and die if there was a major obstruction.
Time for more "playing" under the hood.

 

The inertia switch is located behind the passenger side kick panel.

 

The interia switch absolutely shouldn't have been tripped. Anyway, the injectors are firing-plenty of fuel in the cylinders. I've even removed the Fuel relay and fuse to eliminate the possibility of way too much fuel. Don't want to wipe rings, fill crank case with fuel, fry cats. etc....

I didn't get any "juice" at the crank angle sensor. No reading on the meter while someone cranked the key. I only tested the wires. I didn't create a jumper between the wiring harness and the crank angle sensor. I didn't test the sensor while the engine was being cranked. Mainly because I had a very limited time fame to work in.

The sensor itself is well with in it's functioning parameters. i.e proper resistance.

All fuses and relays in the power dist. center are good.

I leaning towards a partially fried PCM. Not firing the coil packs.

 

Crank sensors produce ac voltage, not dc voltage. When cranking it should put out .2 to 2.2 volts ac. That is with the meter connected to the sensor and unplugged from the car harness. The fuel pump power has to go through the inertia switch. It is the last thing for 12 volts to go through before it powers the pump. I have seen a few fry the inertia switch connector, It is the best point to test for power to the fuel pump however. It should have 12 volts for 3 seconds when you turn the key on for fuel pump prime.

 

I'm aware it's AC current. If I'm getting plenty of fuel, what would the interia switch have to do w/ the car not starting? Fuel isn't the issue. I can hear the pump prime every time I turn the key to start position.
Would a bad cam sensor affect the crank angle sensor? I can't tell from the harness if they are wired in a loop or as independent components. I still haven't been able to find a wiring schematic online(well without spending 200 or so dollars).

I'm not sure if I mentioned it, but I had installed a new crank angle sensor and had no change in the cars behavior.

I did learn there is a capacitor involved in the circuit from the crank angle sensor to PCM(or at least I was told this and I haven't determined if it would affect the coil packs, or if it's even true).

I don't thing all six drivers of the six coil packs would all go at once

 

The crank sensor signals for spark and the cam sensor signals the fuel injector pulse. A noid light will tell you if you have injection. Maybe 5 bucks at a parts store. You can unbolt a coil,stick a spark plug on it and see if you have spark. The spark should be blue. Orange spark is weak spark. Connect the noid light to an injector connector to test for injector pulse. If you have both spark and injector pulse then remove the upstream o2 sensors to eliminate the possibility of and exhaust restriction. I had one towed in a few months ago not running and it turned out to be a piece of cotton packing on the MAF hotwire from a new air filter install.

 

I once had the same symptoms on a 01 Ford Escape 3.0 I once had. Wouldn't even go over 10mph and would barely rev up! I had a clogged converter.

 

Good signal at the crank angle sensor. So, that's not the problem. Found a piece of Cat. converter in the front pipe. Used a bore scope and they look good inside. It's almost as if someone put the piece into the front(pipe)? So, now there are no obstructions, even if I do need to replace the front converter.
Still no start . Definitely getting fuel. You can smell it in the exhaust(when I disconnected it).

This is ABSURD!!!! I haven't check for spark at a coil pack, since I don't have anyone to crank the car while I perform the task. Same with fuel(which I'm willing bet if perfect, but I'll check anyway).

Is there anyway that a portion of the PCM has gone bad. Such as the driver for the coil packs? I'm fairly certain that there are six drivers and it seems a little far fetched that all six would die. I have found several low mileage PCM's for decent prices, but I don't want to throw money at this car.

I haven't disconnected the rear cat. Just tapped it and I didn't hear any obvious rattles inside.

I think I relayed this already. I checked every wire from the loom into the PCM to make sure they are all properly seated. Never separated the two wiring connectors attached to the pass. side valve cover.

WTF is going on

 

Well, after running the 5 year battery to death I went and replaced it w/ a new Interstate battery. I got the car to fire up and run, but then it started acting up. I pulled the MAF connector and it died immediately. I was told by a Ford mechanic that it should run w/ this harness disconnected. Not sure why I pulled it, for some test I was going to perform(?)

I got a helper to crank the engine while I observed for spark. I'm definitely getting spark. Not the greatest, considering the plugs are only 2 months old, but still good, reliable spark. The car fired right up w/ the #4 coil pack removed for testing. Heck, I even pulled all three front coil packs to check/clean the plugs. I cranked the key and the darn thing fired up and ran on three cylinders!!!!!.

Today, I decided to change out the PCV and just be done w/ removing the darn intake. This is the fourth time. Got that evil little PCV out and installed a new one. HERE'S A TIP: USE A 7/8TH 12 POINT SOCKET AND A THREE INCH EXTENSION TO REMOVER THE PCV. Works like a charm.

I installed brand new intake seals, even though the old one's are two weeks old, just incase I got a bad batch. Sealed even thing back up, checking every single connecter, cleaning them / electrical terminal cleaner and compressed air. Cleaned/check all vacuum and PCV lines. Everything looks good.
Fire car up. Runs smooth, UNTIL you apply throttle. Bogs down, stumbles to 2000/2500 stumbles and RPM's drop. Close to stalling or stalling. Strange resonating sound from the rear of the intake.

I inspected and cleaned the Idle Air Control sensor and it moves freely. OHMs value are around 10. I even tried a brand new one, no change.

What is causing all this drama!!!!! Any more hints.
Would an acting up MAS be the culprit? If so, how do I test it? I'll need the values.

Could the PCM only be work at part of it's capacity? Surges and such? Not quite dead but not perfect?

The engine wiring harness looks good. No obvious signs of rub through, cuts, abrasions etc... BTW, what a stupid design with the harness being shoved under the passenger side upper engine mount. Really, partially dropping the engine to slide the harness out to remove the last injector connector(cylinder 1).

So PLEASE, any other thoughts. I can't afford to send this off to a shop.

 

Honestly it sounds like low fuel pressure/MAF/restricted exhaust/cam sensor. One of those. Have you checked the fuel pressure with a gauge? Most parts stores have loaner tools and charge you nothing but a deposit which you get back. Crank sensors and cam sensors produce voltage and the wires get pretty hot at the connector. I have seen wires on them that look fine until you tug on them and find that the wire was gone and only the coating remained resulting in poor or no connection. If i had to bet on it i would bet the crappy plastic flex hose from the fuel pump to hanger has a hole in it.