First, let me apologize for the length of this post. I'm trying to figure out what is wrong with my car without spending a million dollars at the mechanic. I'll end up going to a mechanic soon, but would like to fix whatever I can by myself if possible.

I have a 2004 Mazda Tribute V6 that had been running well for the majority of the time that I've used it, but in the last several months, it's developed a few issues. It has about 82,500 miles on it.

The most important issues are that my car has a rough idle, it hesitates during acceleration, it vibrates sometimes, and the gauges will occasionally throw all the way to max, down to zero, then go back to their normal values. I don't know if all these issues are related, but they're the most important and I'm not sure what's causing them.

I recently put some fuel injector cleaner in my tank before filling up this week and it severely reduced the frequency and amount of vibration that occurred. Shortly after adding the fuel injector cleaner and filling my tank, my check engine light came on temporarily, but turned off after driving around for a little while, at which point the vibration had essentially stopped. Now the car vibrates only when the AC is on, and the vibrations are less intense than they were previously.

Also, I hooked up my OBD code reader and my car has codes P0316 (engine misfire detected on startup) and P0305 (misfire on cylinder 5). I don't remember the last time I had my spark plugs replaced (if ever?) and I'm wondering if the misfiring could be related to the spark plugs, or if it's likely something else (especially since it's only one cylinder misfiring).

Next, my windshield wiper fluid isn't coming out. I've filled the reservoir with wiper fluid and it doesn't appear to be leaking out, but it doesn't come out when I trigger the wiper fluid. The wipers still work normally. Is this just a simple fuse that needs to be replaced?

Does anyone know what the MAFS rate should be on these cars? I can't remember the exact number I get, but I think it's between 4-5 when idle, and between 11 and 19 when driving. I'll get the exact numbers tomorrow when I drive to work, but I have a feeling that some of my issues may be related to an air flow issue. I opened my hood the other day, did a visual inspection, and noticed that a tube that is connected to the MAFS (I think that's what it is) is so worn and almost completely torn off. Here are some pics:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ctio8ja2rtehiif/Pic%202.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/945tgu9s6okkqwc/Pic%201.jpg

The area circled in red is the part where the tubing is almost completely disconnected. For now it's ghettorigged with some tape to hold it together, but I want to know what this tube is and what I need to do to replace it. The first picture just shows where the tube in the second picture is coming from.

Sorry for the long post. Any help is appreciated, thanks.

 

With your mileage, you are overdue with spark plugs. Spark plugs could cause misfire. On your vehicle, (V6) it is not easy to change the spark plugs at the back as the top intake plenum must be removed. Since it is hard to get to please get the following done while they are there: 1) clean EGR valve, 2) replace PCV valve, 3) clean throttle body, clean MAF sensor, 4) change all 3 ignition coils at the rear bank of cylinders plus the one that is misfiring (you can change the front ones later because they are easier to get to), 5) change intake plenum gaskets and throttle body gasket

The above will be cheaper to do now and necessary and will not be that much more to do as they will be removed anyway!

The hose that is rubbed through leading to your intake tube just before the throttle body is the PCV tubing from the front bank. The PCV valve i believe is in the back. Yes there are 2 tubes for PCV. What you called the MAF is the PCV intake in the intake tube. Your MAF is further up the large accordian tube just before the silver clamp with 6 wires coming ouit of it.

Changing plugs is not a cheap fix unless you can do it yourself. To see what's basically required read: https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...ocedure-29393/ it may be close to your engine, but not exact.

Another thing you should do is:

 

Hi TWO5I5TY -

I also have a 2004 Mazda Tribute ES V6 with 139,000 miles on it and have had (knock on wood) no real problems like you are experiencing. I did however have the same problem with the hose that you pictured. The 90 degree rubber boot actually dry rotted and when I opened the hood it was just hanging there. Let me tell you a GREAT way to fix it. I used a right angle insulator boot found on a spark plug wire. It fit perfectly and allows airflow perfectly.

 

First of all, thanks for your detailed reply. I had been meaning to respond sooner, but have been busy with work and school.

So far, I've alleviated the problem a little bit by changing the front 3 spark plugs (Cylinders 4, 5, and 6). My coils seemed to be okay on the front and there was no oil on them. My CEL hasn't come on again since replacing those 3 plugs, but my vehicle still gives a much less violent jerk and vibration occasionally. At least now, I can use my air conditioner lol. I've also replaced my fuel pump filter and my IAC valve, the latter of which helped with the hesitation a little bit.

I've heard of using the lacquer thinner to help clean out the car. I just did another treatment of the fuel injector cleaner this week before I filled up. I drive about 100 miles total (about 50 each way) 4 days a week (summer class) and I'm at a quarter tank right now. When I fill up next time and get to a half tank, can I use the lacquer thinner treatment then, or should I wait a little while longer? Or not do it at all?

I'll probably be changing the rear spark plugs this weekend or next when I have some free time. Assuming that changing the rear spark plugs doesn't fix the vibration, what should be my next course of action?

I'm currently using a replacement part I got from Oreilly's. Officially, it doesn't fit on the car, but it's working for me so far lol. I'll probably replace it with the OEM part later on.