I recently purchased a 2006 Mazda Tribute V6 (114K miles) that has an issue with vibration while at idle. The idle remains constant, steady and at the appropriate level whether in park, drive or reverse, but there is a very noticeable vibration that can be felt though the cab and steering wheel as well as elevated in cabin engine noise. This only occurs at idle. Once the accelerator is applied it is smooth and quiet. The engine also run smooth and quiet at idle when observed from outside the vehicle with the hood up which leads me to believe the elevated noise is a byproduct of the vibration. When accelerating there does not seem to be any slop in the engine/trans mounts and the trans seems to shift smoothly. The vehicle sounds, runs and drives great except for this vibration at idle.

Note: The belt on the passenger side of the engine was recently replaced by the previous owner.


Any known issues or suggestions.

Thanks,
J.

 

Exact same problem for well over a year now. Vibrates your hands on the wheel all the way up your legs to your rear while at a stop light, but as soon as you go, it's gone. It is too intense at the stops to not repair..also mines gotten worse as time goes on. I read something about a wearing mount on another forurm, but don't know? Did you find the fix???

 

engine mounts, sounds like you need some replaced. Get it checked out ASAP, a worn mount puts additional stress on the transmission coupling.

 

KBWood, I replaced the front (passenger side) engine mount and the vibration went away completely. I purchased the mount from Amazon and the installation was surprisingly easy. I even used the screw jack that comes with the vehicle to support/lift the engine. However, now that this mount has been replaced and vibrations cured it is much more apparent that the remaining two mounts (rear and trans) are shot as well. I purchased these mounts from Amazon as well and look to install them over the weekend. The rear mount (drivers side) looks like it should be fairly easy. The trans mount however looks like it may be quite a job just to get to it so I may end up hiring that install out if can be done for a reasonable cost.

Also after installation of the front mount to cure the vibration the engine seems to misfire and shudder intermittently if RPM's fall below 1,500 or so while driving. Doubtful this was caused by raising the engine back up with the new mount and more than likely a pre-existing condition that is much more noticeable without the previous excessive vibrations. Also I have not owned the vehicle long so I do not know if this has been ongoing or a recent issue. I ordered plugs, 6 new coils and a gasket set from Amazon and plan to replace those items over the weekend as well seeing as shops wanted over $600 dollars just to replace the plugs, not counting the cost of replacing any coils that test bad. Ridiculous that the whole intake plenum has to be removed to do this, but it doesn't look to be excessively difficult.

Once the plugs, coils and remaining mounts are replaced I think the vehicle will be good for some time other than some thud from the front which I assume to be bushings of some sort but low on the priority list at this point.

If anyone has any tips or can point me towards instruction for the transmission mount replacement that would be great!

 

Yesterday my Amazon parts came in and were installed. The plugs/coils were time consuming due to having to remove the intake plenum, but not necessarily difficult...just be careful not to over-tighten and crack the plenum. I used Denso Platinum plugs and generic coils I purchased for $50 for a set a 6. They all seem to work perfectly and the engine runs smooth with no misfires and plenty of power.

The remaining motor mounts also came in, but have not been installed. The top rear mount was incorrect so I had to re-order and will have to wait until Tuesday to install. However, well looking for a dropped nut I did see another mount just under the front bumper that might actually be what the "incorrect" mount is. Will have to check, but if so I will cancel the return and install that mount as well. The transmission mount below the firewall however is a different story. Will most likely find a shop to install that one. There is just no good way to access it and working from underneath is nearly impossible without a lift. "May" try ramps or jack stands, but doubt that will be a huge difference .

Finally, a friend mentioned the timing belt. I am reading the 3.0 has a timing chain which is not recommended for replacement and intended to last the life of the engine (however long that may be). The fella I purchased it from mentioned the external belts were replaced, but considering he essentially lied about everything else I suppose these will need inspection/replacement as well. The larger passenger side belt does not look too difficult aside from the PITA of having to set the vehicle on stands and remove the passenger wheel and plastic wheel well. The smaller drivers side belt I haven't found any info on yet.

 

Decided to shampoo the interior yesterday and while doing so the new engine/trans mount arrived from Amazon. It turns out the one I thought to be incorrect was correct for the vehicle, I just hadn't noticed it beneath the front bumper area. Both mounts were easily installed. The mount under the bumper requires removing a plastic shroud to access and the drivers side mount required removal of airbox and battery/tray to complete.

Vehicle feels much less clunky, but still seems to clunk intermittently when letting of the accelerator. Hopefully this will be fully relieved once the final trans mount is installed under the firewall and is not an internal trans problem revealing itself. However, I noticed today while driving to lunch it seemed to slip slightly when shifting to 2nd. I had not noticed this before so I will just have to determine if it is going to do this consistently and worsen or if it was just a random slip from an aging trans.

Pleased with the vehicle so far, but definitely fear the transmission these SUV's are plagued with.

 

Have you changed the trans fluid? Big improvement in mine (@70k miles) when I did so, especially after 100miles or so when the trans has learned/adapted.

 

I did change the trans fluid when I purchased it, but you bring up a good point about the computer "learning". I did have the battery disconnected/removed twice lately (within the last 50 miles) for an hour or more each time so maybe the intermittent issues I noticed today are just the computer re-calibrating. I guess we shall see if they clear up in the next 50 or so miles.

 

Ah yes, mine improved over about 200km from a battery disconnection.

 

Hey Tribute, thanks for all the updates and potential other issues! When looking at the passenger mount, it sure is hard to tell if anything is wrong. It looks fine. Is this something you had to just do to find out, or could you tell it was bad by looking at it before and/or after removing it. Also, the screw jack goes where? Under oil pan or somewhere else? Thanks.