I'm having a intermitting idle problem at start up and it will not stay running at idle. seems very hot under the hood but gage does not reflect it running hot, but is very hot to the touch even the hood when trying to open it.

 

I had this problem with my 2002 Tribute about two years ago...the second time it had happened over a year period...and took it in for reapir. Because it was still under warranty the problem was fixed, but it was explained to me it was a problem with onboard computer. It was very scary to pull out in traffic and as soon as you got off the gas, the car would shut off in the street.

 

There was recall some time back #1904D that involved reprogramming the engine computer for an intermittent idle dip or engine stall. Could well be related. Would also consider a faulty Idle Air Control Valve. This Valves only purpose in life is to provide a stable idle speed under any operating condition. Try tapping lightly on the valve when it is trying to stall and see if it will suddenly idle normally. Not an uncommon problem with the Tribs and trucks.

 

Here's my issue and my post I haev in another mazda forum:

Does anyone have any clue?

 

If your car was out by a few month's for the Recall 1904D, it simply meant that the updated computer calibration had already been installed on your Tribute. That is all the recall was about and it sounds like they did update to the latest calibration level currently available from Mazda.
Would still be very highly suspect of an Idle Air Control valve sticking closed at times powaking. If valve gets stuck closed on decel then the engine will stall. It will also sometimes show up as a stalling condition after start-up which you apparantly do not have yet. Basically anytime the throttle is closed and valve sticks closed the engine will stall. IAC is the only part that keeps enough air going into the engine to keep it running. Sticking valve also very, very rarely even sets a code and turns on the CEL as the internal resistance is still within specs and event occurs so quickly that it does not register as an IAC fault. There are about 17 codes that could be set by various IAC faults by the way.
Dealership may not be willing to take a guess at the problem but if it were my wife driving a stalling car, I would try this first. It is not an expensive part at only $75.23 from dealer and $60.18 from onlinemazdaparts.com. Replacement is also very simple as it is very accessible and attached to the intake manifold with only two 8mm bolts. Would be happy to post up some pics on location and replace if you are interested.

 

Thanks for the reply. I'll try anything right about now. Is there anyway I can know for sure by looking at the part to see if it is sticking (any build up? etc). Even with the extended warranty I'm still looking at a $100 deductable anyway so this may be cheaper to do on my own. And if you could post some pics that would be great too.

 

Not really any good reliable way to determine if it is sticking unless it is actually stuck at the time. They always have a little black sooty build-up inside but does not seem to be a good indicator of being good or bad. Replaced one earlier this week in an 02 V6 but when it came in the shop, engine would not idle at all and owner had to keep feathering the throttle to keep it running. A lite tap on the top of the IAC with my 4oz. part whacker hammer and idle kicked right up to normal.

Part number for the IAC on your 03 is AJ03-20-660A. Gasket is a part number AJ03-20-661A. Gasket is not really needed as it is a soft rubber seal and have never had one damaged but if you like to do the job right thought I would throw that in as well. Gasket is a little over $5 and valve is $60.18 at onlinemazdaparts.com. MSRP at dealer is $75.23 for the valve.


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Pic of IAC valve that is hopefully causing all of this stalling.

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8mm socket used to remove both bolts. IAC remove but gasket still in place.

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Close-up shows that it really is not that dirty inside.

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All parts involved to replace.

 

Thanks a ton. I'll give it a shot. At this point I have nothing to lose.

 

Is well worth the time and expense giving the failure rate that I have seen powaking. Best of luck and hope this resolves the stalling issues that you have been having.

 

Ordered the parts and the website quoted me around $70 shipped but when I received it on Friday I was only charged $37.10. Not complaining. Total install took less time than it took to fish the dropped socket in the engine compartment. The old unit had some carbon build up in side and the rod didn't move up and down smoothly. Here are some pics of the one I took out.



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