Mazda Protege This compact model offers an economical solution for the need for a sporty sedan or wagon.

1996 Mazda Protege squealing belt issues

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  #11  
Old 08-21-2011, 02:51 PM
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I just bought an 03' Protege for my daughter and the belts are new and it has that squeal at cold start also and pulling out sometimes.I did what everyone else does and adjusted the tension on the one belt and it still did it.Then I did the Alt. belt and am not sure if it's resolved.I thought it maybe the idler or tensioner on the timing belt.Funny I just found this sight and sorry to hear this is a common problem.I was looking for a Honda but this came up.Hope I do not regret it.These cars are definately not as good a quality as say a Civic which I own a 2000 yr model.
 

Last edited by newyota; 08-21-2011 at 07:41 PM.
  #12  
Old 08-21-2011, 07:40 PM
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Update-After I tightened the Alt. belt alittle and driving it about 30 minutes in some trafffic it did not squeel.Will see if it comes back.
 
  #13  
Old 08-22-2011, 04:35 PM
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Where is everybody????update to my update-Well the car sat overnight outside and it cooled down to about 60 degrees and when I started the car it squeled alittle then when I put it in reverse it reallly made some racket as I backed out and the continued briefly then stopped after about 1 minute orless.After it sat for 8 hours for work in the hot sun I went out and the belt never made a sound and I drve it for about an hour in some stop and go and some hwy traffic.Took belts off and did notice on the power steering/AC belt and pulleys a fine brownish dust.Seems to be baked on the pulleys and tried to clean off with no success.Dust looks like dust from the AC clutch.Not sure if this is causing the squeeling noise.
 

Last edited by newyota; 08-23-2011 at 05:06 PM.
  #14  
Old 11-09-2011, 01:49 PM
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Hi all im new here . Sorry to revive an old thread but seeing as nobody came up with a solution i decided i must share my secret with you other Mazda owners. I had this exact problem on my 1996 Mazda Etude (Protege) . After replacing many belts and checking their tension numerous times i finally decided to try something different. I noticed that the pulleys grooves had been polished to a high shine after many kilometers of driving . Now naturally , shiny surfaces are slippery right ? So I proceeded to break that shine thereby giving the surface of the pulley a little more friction.

This is how I went about doing it

I removed the alternator from the engine, put in in a vice and removed the pulley . I took the pulley to work and set it up in the lathe. Once set up I sanded the grooves of the pulley with emery cloth . This dulled the surface of the pulleys . It only takes a few minutes of sanding nothing more. I proceeded to assemble the alternator and i bolted it back onto the engine , installed new belts and voila!!!!!!!!!! PROBLEM GONE

If you dont have access to a lathe, take it to any engineering shop and ask them to do it for you . They probably wont charge you anything cause it literally takes 2 minutes to do

Now I performed this operation over a year ago and I still havnt heard a sound from the belts nor have i had to replace them . Hope this helps all you guys out there who are puzzling with this problem.

Best Regards
Andrew Ferguson
South Africa
 

Last edited by etudeSA; 11-09-2011 at 01:51 PM. Reason: Typo
  #15  
Old 11-12-2012, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by MazdaES
Ahhhh, the old squeaking belt trick. Everytime I change belts on mine (1996 ES 1.8L) This happens. I've narrowed it down to a few things.

1. Pulley alignment - Get a long straightedge out and put it on all the pulleys. Be sure they are aligned to each other.

2. Pulley condition - be sure to get them clean. If not you will throw belts. Clean all that belt dressing out and throw away the can. Never use belt dressing on grooved pulleys..

3. Tightness - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!!! Deflection for a new A/C - P/S belt should be 8-9mm between the crankshaft and p/s pulleys. Used should be 9-10mm. Generator pulley belt new should be 5.5-7mm, 6-7.5mm used between the generator and the crankshaft. Use the bolt above the generator to adjust. TIP.. Put the new belts on, Drive the car for an hour or so, then readjust. Then repeat the procedure in 3 days. When readjusting in 3 days, use the "used" numbers

4. Belt quality - I always use goodyear gatorback belts. Cheaper brands will just cause headaches

5. A problematic generator will cause major headaches on these cars. Typically, you will see chunking on the generator belt, but not always. I would need to know what size motor you have before could tell how remove it.

6. Also, check for oil leaks around the crankshaft.

I have a mazda shop manual for this car, so I can help with diagrams and procedures. Just email me what you need and I will try to get it to you.

Good luck..
hello there wow that's very good inf
I would be grateful if guide me step be step how to change the fan belts and steering belt for my Mazda 323 GLX 1.5I-years 1997
thanks in advance
 
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