My '98 Protege won't start when the temp outside gets cold. It all started when I changed the oil and spark plugs one day. The plugs were VERY hard to get out as they had been in for awhile. I've changed plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor button, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, idle air control valve, air filter. Clened MAF sensor with MAF sensor spray. Removed throttle body and cleaned thoroughly. Took it to my mechanic, he checked the engine coolant temp sensor, said it was fine. He also said my compression was "a little low" across all cyls. He gave up on it and didn't charge me anything. It has 140k mile on it and runs great once you get it going. By the way, it is a 1.5 liter engine. to finally get it started you have to stand on the gas pedal and crank it for 15 to 20 minutes in 4 to 5 minute intervals. Bought a fuel pressure gage and fuel pressure is 36 - 38 psi at the rail. The car is a little hesitant to start even in warm weather but the colder it gets the worse it is. Injectors aren't leaking because I relieved the pressure from fuel system one night...next morning same thing. CEL is not on but does come on sometimes and the code P1195 is found. This code is EGR system or circuitry. After more driving the Cel goes off. The car does have a small crack in the exhaust manifold but that has been there since about 60k miles and it always started fine. It might be time for another car, I'm out of ideas. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Nevermind, I bought a Ford Escort ZX2 today! Wonderful car and the parts are dirt cheap for it. If anyone needs a '98 Protege for parts I have one sitting in my backyard... What a headache! Thanks to all who replied and offered support, but I'm through with Mazdas for good.
it's all the same crap my focus is having as much problems as my mazda, but the mazda problems were more serious the focus ones but were all caused by me lol, Cause i have so much racing crap on it, it just needs to be tuned properly and it should be good. But just like and other car ive had those days when i throw a tool accoss the shop and say "F-THIS IM SELLING IT!" lol
i had the SAME exact problem when I did the BP swap. We tried changing the Crankshaft Position SEnsor since it is somewhat responsible for fuel delivery. And your fuel pump doesn't run? Have you tried removing the Fuel Pump and hooking it up directly to the battery? You can figure out if the pump itself is bad. Distributor could play a role in the problem because it is also responsible for starting the fuel. Other than that, I'd say the wiring on the harness is bad. I would hate to say this unfortunately but that was the problem in my case, it was burnt out. If you haven't touched the wiring in your car in anyway, then maybe it wans't a problem. But again, my problem all ran down to the harness being burnt out which was the source of all my problems.