Hi all,

Hope you can help me out. Brief summary with the question at the bottom.

I bought up a '90 B2200 pick-up earlier this summer and now it's having a bit of trouble starting up, and last weekend I had to take it off the road.

On the start-up it will shake and shudder, but after a try or two it will turn over. Then, while driving last weekend, even though I put the gas down I was getting no power. The engine would rev, but it kept slowing down. I could barely get to the side of the road. I sat for 5 minutes and tried again, and was able to drive it home.

I've searched around and have been told by others it's likely a fuel system problem.

I see as my options in order:
-changing the fuel filter
-cleaning the fuel lines
-replacing the fuel pump

So, I think I should be able to do the first option myself.

I have Chilton's repair manual on the truck, which has very nice step-by-step instructions for changing a fuel filter.

EXCEPT... for that first step.

1. Relieve the pressure from the fuel system.

Getting a splash of gas in the face is not something I'd enjoy, so, can someone help me out with the proper way to relieve the pressure.

Thanks!

 

Disclaimer: remember that gasoline is highly flammable. A good idea would be to have a fire extinguisher near, and maybe a safety friend/observer.

That said, disclaimer #2, I've only done a fuel filter replacement on a fuel-injected vehicle on my '94 Suburban and a '98 Frontier, as my B2200 and VW are carbureted.

Wear goggles, about $3, not safety glasses, or goggles over your regular glasses, for the release of pressure, if there is any. My Frontier's filter had hose clamps, just loosen, can wrap with a rag somewhat; the Suburban had metal fittings, one needs to use a back-up wrench so the line doesn't get twisted. Flare wrenches are better for this job than open-end wrenches. Any "burst" of fuel will only be like one second duration, although fuel may steadily leak as you do this job, so you'll want to plan it out with correct tools, and new fuel filter handy, to speed up the swap. And use the back-up wrench for tightening. So don't get gas in your face, or in your armpits, it's a messy job of sorts even for a mechanic with the vehicle on a lift. After you do this, you'll understand why a shop may charge half to one hour labor for a relatively straightforward job. I've done this about five times, and have never had any "spray out" of gas, but yours may be different so take the precautions.

 

Thanks!

A video I saw on this job said to loosen the side going to the engine first. My expectation is by doing that, I will relieve the pressure and then be able to loosen the side going to the tank. (The video was funny in how they had obvious edits to cut out the gas spray or drips, etc).

Thanks for the info.

I am trying to learn more about my truck, while also not paying $80 to replace a $6 part...

 

Except for the gasoline being flammable or getting in your eyes, it's an easy job. On my '94 Suburban, GM designed the fittings to require a 16mm and a 20mm flare or open-end wrench, and those sizes were NOT part of any of the metric wrench sets I own, and I own about four different sets. GM would say that the designed it that way to discourage vehicle owners from doing the job themselves (for "safety reasons") but I'd say it's their way to try to drum up additional business, including fuel pump replacements caused by neglecting the fuel filter.

Why do you think virtually all manufacturers do not have an access panel in the trunk or in the truck bed for access to the electric fuel pump and sender on top of the fuel tank? Because replacing these is big business, and they're not likely to fail within the warranty period.