choking up hill
#1
choking up hill
Hi gang, I have a small problem hope someone call help ...
I recently bought this trucks and it generally runs great, starts well without fussing ... except when I'm on the highway and requiring torque to go up hill - it just dies ... I checked the plugs and air filter, everything looks good ...
question, how susceptible is this vehicle to reduced gas intake when inclined ??
I'm wondering maybe there's water in the tank - can I simply add a water neutralizer in the tank or would you recommend emptying the tank using the bottom valve ??
I also wanna know is there anything else I should be looking at ??
Thanks in advance for any help (!!)
John
I recently bought this trucks and it generally runs great, starts well without fussing ... except when I'm on the highway and requiring torque to go up hill - it just dies ... I checked the plugs and air filter, everything looks good ...
question, how susceptible is this vehicle to reduced gas intake when inclined ??
I'm wondering maybe there's water in the tank - can I simply add a water neutralizer in the tank or would you recommend emptying the tank using the bottom valve ??
I also wanna know is there anything else I should be looking at ??
Thanks in advance for any help (!!)
John
#2
RE: choking up hill
I don't have much of an answer for you, except to say that i have a similar problem.When going uphill at higher speeds (50+ mph) my truck just seems to start choking out. It seems to zip around pretty good at lower speeds, but in 4th and 5th gear, really lacks the torque. I also wonder what's wrong, but the previous owner put larger wheels and tires onmine, so that could be part of it
#3
RE: choking up hill
Hey Folks,
I have 1 1984 Mazda B2000, 2.0, 4cyl 5 speed. I had a similar problem. When trying to accelerate from 55+ on the flat, or when going up hills, I would lose power and start to chug.
Turns out I had a majorly clogged fuel filter. I replaced it, and now I zip along at 60+ and can accelerate really well. Check the fuel lines, filter, pvc valve and consider vacuum leaks too.
good luck,
cheers
I have 1 1984 Mazda B2000, 2.0, 4cyl 5 speed. I had a similar problem. When trying to accelerate from 55+ on the flat, or when going up hills, I would lose power and start to chug.
Turns out I had a majorly clogged fuel filter. I replaced it, and now I zip along at 60+ and can accelerate really well. Check the fuel lines, filter, pvc valve and consider vacuum leaks too.
good luck,
cheers
#4
RE: choking up hill
also make sure there is nothing clogging your fuel intake line from the tank (you will need to remove the tank) i had the same problem and it was a little cardboard piece from some fuel additive someone had put in b4 i got the truck..it was the dime size cardboard from the lid....
#5
I had the same. Truck would stumble and die after about 10 seconds of hard accelerating / going uphill but would start again after 5 seconds of cranking, hot or cold.
1990 5-speed extended cab b2200 carburated.
Previous fix attempts that failed (but it could fix yours): Replaced all soft fuel hoses in engine bay and above tank, fuel pump and fuel filter. Replaced plugs & wires. No change--still coughed & died after 10-15 seconds when driving up long hills / at speed.
The issue was the return line to the tank was clogged at the right angle going into the tank, just above the tank on the fuel gauge / siphon assembly. I dropped the tank, and I could not blow air through the hard return line. After cleaning and putting the tank back on, the truck runs fine again. In my case it was siphon tube shavings but could also happen with rust. Note the intake tube and all soft lines others were clear, so it was a pressure issue. I also tried driving with the gas cap loose and the truck still died, so it's not related to air pressure in the tank, but in fuel pump / carb. I also blew out the hard lines from the engine bay to the tank but they were clear; I am convinced my issue was that clog in the right angle of the hard return line just above the tank.
The manual refers to a sight glass to check float bowl level but I could not locate it. Here's an alternate test to see if your truck died because you ran out of gas in the carb (e.g. a gas delivery issue like mine) or some other reason:
1. Take off your air cleaner assembly to gain access to the accelerator linkage (its possible without doing this but much easier with the assembly off).
2. Have a friend push the gas pedal with you watching the carb to find the accelerator lever moving. Its job is to pump gas when the pedal is pressed.
3. While pulling the lever yourself, note how fuel squirts into the carb throat. A strong little stream of gas should be injected.
4. Drive uphill until the truck coughs, then dies.
5. Immediately turn off ignition, pull over & coast to stop.
6. With the engine still off, cpen the hood and manually pump the accelerator linkage lever again.
If the float bowl has been run out of gas due to restriction, the squirts will stop after a few squirts. The strong squirts will turn into mists or little puffs in the carb throat, showing the float bowl is completely empty. My accelerator pump gave me 2-3 strong squirts, then mist after the truck died (I tested a few times).
If you can get 20+ strong squirt streams from the accelerator pump, your float bowl is not empty; look elsewhere for an issue.
Good luck!
Dan
1990 5-speed extended cab b2200 carburated.
Previous fix attempts that failed (but it could fix yours): Replaced all soft fuel hoses in engine bay and above tank, fuel pump and fuel filter. Replaced plugs & wires. No change--still coughed & died after 10-15 seconds when driving up long hills / at speed.
The issue was the return line to the tank was clogged at the right angle going into the tank, just above the tank on the fuel gauge / siphon assembly. I dropped the tank, and I could not blow air through the hard return line. After cleaning and putting the tank back on, the truck runs fine again. In my case it was siphon tube shavings but could also happen with rust. Note the intake tube and all soft lines others were clear, so it was a pressure issue. I also tried driving with the gas cap loose and the truck still died, so it's not related to air pressure in the tank, but in fuel pump / carb. I also blew out the hard lines from the engine bay to the tank but they were clear; I am convinced my issue was that clog in the right angle of the hard return line just above the tank.
The manual refers to a sight glass to check float bowl level but I could not locate it. Here's an alternate test to see if your truck died because you ran out of gas in the carb (e.g. a gas delivery issue like mine) or some other reason:
1. Take off your air cleaner assembly to gain access to the accelerator linkage (its possible without doing this but much easier with the assembly off).
2. Have a friend push the gas pedal with you watching the carb to find the accelerator lever moving. Its job is to pump gas when the pedal is pressed.
3. While pulling the lever yourself, note how fuel squirts into the carb throat. A strong little stream of gas should be injected.
4. Drive uphill until the truck coughs, then dies.
5. Immediately turn off ignition, pull over & coast to stop.
6. With the engine still off, cpen the hood and manually pump the accelerator linkage lever again.
If the float bowl has been run out of gas due to restriction, the squirts will stop after a few squirts. The strong squirts will turn into mists or little puffs in the carb throat, showing the float bowl is completely empty. My accelerator pump gave me 2-3 strong squirts, then mist after the truck died (I tested a few times).
If you can get 20+ strong squirt streams from the accelerator pump, your float bowl is not empty; look elsewhere for an issue.
Good luck!
Dan
#6
First place I would look is my fuel filter. replace it, second place I would look, if fuel filter is good. Cat Converter, when they plug they can make all sorts of issues look exactly like something else.
The carbed B-series trucks, you can check your cat by removing (one at a time) the three hoses from your carb housing on the top of the engine.
The 1 hose is for the upper cat, 1 hose is for the lower cat (Yes B's have to cat's), the 3rd is for the engine. (Sorry, I can't remember which one is where, been a long time since I ran a carb'd truck)
The carbed B-series trucks, you can check your cat by removing (one at a time) the three hoses from your carb housing on the top of the engine.
The 1 hose is for the upper cat, 1 hose is for the lower cat (Yes B's have to cat's), the 3rd is for the engine. (Sorry, I can't remember which one is where, been a long time since I ran a carb'd truck)
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