Hi, Im new but i've been workin on my b2000 for a while now. i've already rewired my stereo,replaced all the speakers, tinted my windows, and still in themiddle of changing the color of the inerior. the oringinal color was a dark marroon, i pulled all the door panels and sprayed them all black, i also recovered the upholstery with new fabric, i masked off the dash and sprayed it too. it really updates the interior.

Anywho, i registered here because i started looking into my my engine situation, my b2000 has a pretty bad bogging problem. my truck really has no power under 2-2500 rpm. i have to rev it up to get a good start, if i dont rev it up enough it just feels like it floods until its get high enough rpm's, and it smells rich when it runs. i havent found out enough about this carb, but i want to check the fuel pressure, and check the idle adjust screw. at idle, it starts up at about 500rpm, then drops down to 250rpm, with a rough idle that shakes my truck and barely idles with out dying. i'm just getting my hands dirty on with this, im about to check my plugs, my wires are actually pretty new so i would imagine it would have good plugs.

while i'm working on this, i want to do some mods, or subtractions i guess. i dont like the huge air filter assembly, but the assembly has some hoses connected to it. first thing, do i need the secondary air hose assembly(the 3 tubes running into the front of the air filter, and run all the way down and connect to the header collector. can they be capped and removed right at the collector? and with all the other hoses that go to it, i just want to convert to a plain air filter, nothing bulky like stock. one other thing i kind of want to 86 is the evaporative emissions control canister. this is the can right behind the battery, its purpose is, it has a line connected to the gas tank to collect the vapors, and store them in this can, then the vapors are fed through a tube to the air filter assembly and then burned. it sounds like a useful thing, its just another "cleanin out the closet" thing, it would look so much cleaner without all these things. they look and seem to have no use for the way i want my truck. but they all are emissions parts. will this effect anything?

I also think a carb swap would be pretty cool, is a 4bbl a possibility???

thanks, brian

 

I would go with a Weber Carb upgrade. You can pick up everything that you need for around 300 to 400 bucks. It gets rid of all the emmissions sensors. The only thing about them is that if you live in a state with strict emmissions guidelines, it won't pass inspection, if your state has that. I would check into it first.

 

bring your idle up to 825 rpm.thencheck the ignition timeing.
http://www.mazdatruckin.com/B2200/B22TimeCheck.html

 

If it has been running rich for a while most likely your cats are plugged, this will cause hard start, rough or low idle, lack of power, bogging, etc... The stock carbs on these things are piles of junk and always have problems with them. I'll bet if you install the weber, then put a header on it and run a new exhaust the thing will run like a champ. If everything else is good it will not only run better but make a lot more power and probably get better fuel mileage. Doing this will also allow you to eliminate the stock air breather, the lines going to the exhaust, and almost all of the vacuum lines and actuators on the driver side of the engine compartment.

 

thanks for the replys, i've been busy working these last couple months and havent had internet to check back. as for the update, my truck ran better after i changed the plugs and wires, it was almost night and day, the bad news i discovered was my #2 plug hole is stripped from the jack *** before.

that was a while ago when i did that, drove it a while tinker'd some more on other stuff, then it just started running hot and i barely got the thing to work, so i filled it with some water, had a hard time getting it to start after work, cruisin home on the highway, the truck is puttin, smokin, and makin me worried cuz i know other parts are suffering from this overheating crisis. people said it was blown head gasket, but i saw no leaks and my oil was all clean.

so long story short it stalled off the highway that day, couldn't get it started, got it home, and now its a pile of parts. i flew back home right after it happened, went broke from that, just now gettin on my feet, but the cheapest thing i could do and get work done was to re-paint it. its 3/4's in primer and lookin alright. my motor is completly stripped long block status, i've been cleaning and degreasing the whole thing, its turning out pretty nice. im also leaving off my a/c compressor just because my blower motor doesnt even work and it can easily go back on.

Do i need to do the carb conversion to delete the secondary air hoses that come up from the exhaust?
Where can you find new headers for these trucks?

i'm just getting to the point where i get to start buyin parts. the motor has almost 190k on it, a rebuild would be nice but i cant afford it and i need to get this runnin soon. one question im still playing with is wether i should take the head off to re tap the plug hole or go with it, and if its off i'll just get the head rebuilt.

basically lookin at a whole cooling system, i pulled my water pump off and its solid. my radiator was almost 1/2 gone when i pulled it out, the thermostat was already out when i got the housing off, hoses were slightly crunchy

well thats where i stand on my truck
right on everybody, aloha weekend

 

just thought of this after the post, i have 190k on my B, how long can these motors go running strong and reliably?

 

theres a guy eflores on another board and hes got over 400K without a rebuild...