Hi guys!

We have an addition to our fleet: ’97 Mazda B 2300 which is the same as Ford Ranger 2.3L. What a neat little truck and only 127000 miles on the odometer! It came with a caveat though. The engine does not run because the timing belt broke and the PO’s attempt to replace it was not successful.
I researched this thing a bit by studying the Haynes manual that came with the truck. The Haynes manual warns several times that the engine could sustain damage if the camshaft is not properly aligned. I suppose this means that the Lima engine is an interference engine. Can anyone confirm this statement? If it is an interference engine is there a chance the valves did not receive the kiss of death by the pistons?
Another question is about finding the proper TDC of the first cylinder. This engine has peculiar ignition system. There are 2 plugs per cylinder and there are 2 coil packs with 4 towers. Somewhere I learned that the system sparks at every revolution, meaning near TDC on the compression stroke and again near TDC at the exhaust stroke. That means I cannot use the spark sequence to determine proper alignment. I think I need to use the injector voltage to determine which spark will actually go with the power stroke. Am I correct with this?
Your expertise is much appreciated!

 

Thanks for nothing guys!
I received help over at the Ford Forum. And here is the deal:
The 2.3L and 2.5L 4 cylinder engines are known as "Lima" engines. They are "free wheeling" or non-interference engines With the exceptions of the '86 to '88 models.

Replacing the timing belt is straight forward with one minor thing causing confusion:
There are the crank sprocket, the cam sprocket and the oil pump sprocket. The cam and oil pump sprockets are identical. They each have 2 timing marks stamped on them. The triangle is used on the camshaft and the diamond is used on the oil pump. In these engines the cam sensor has been placed on the oil pump. Therefore it is necessary to time the oil pump sprocket correctly.
Here are the main steps:
1. Put the crankshaft on TDC for cylinder #1.
2. Put the camshaft triangle mark opposite to the triangle mark on the head. This places the #1 valves in compression mode.
3. Put diamond on the oil pump sprocket opposite to the diamond on the engine block. This synchronizes the camshaft position sensor with the camshaft.
4. place the belt on the crankshaft sprocket, over the oil pump sprocket and stretch it slighlty to meet the cam shaft sprocket. If a tooth hits a tooth turn the camshaft clockwise until the teeth drop in the valleys of the sprocket.
5. Release the tensioner.
6. Check the timing marks on all 3 shafts.


The previous owner tried to replace the belt and guess what: he matched the diamond with the triangle and the triangle with the diamond! After correcting this the engine runs beautiful!

Here is a video. It is helpful but the guy removes more things than necessary. You only need to remove 4 of the 8 spark plugs. You don't need to remove the thermostat housing. He also warns way too much about valve interference: It won't happen.

 

It's hard to find good help these days! and you're the one who usually gives great advice, shame we couldn't help you on this.

 

I didn't respond because I didn't know. I did learn something today about this issue, thanks!

 

Noggin and Kevin:

You are cornerstones of the forum. I wasn't picking at you guys personally! I have plenty gaps of knowledge. That's why I stay out of the fray with turbos and Millenia and rotaries.

I am missing MazdaTirol, and Virgin 1 has gone quiet as well. But that's life, priorities change.

Cheers!

 

I know this is an old thread, and i apologize for the length of this message, but I'm considering replacing the timing belt on a '97 B2300 we purchased and was hoping to learn a little more from your experience. The truck we bought has 116k on it and no indication that the timing belt was ever changed, so I thought that would be prudent. Since you did just that, I was wondering if you might have some answers to the following:

- saw the video and thought pulling the DS plugs was unnecessary as well - I assume this is just to relieve compression so the engine can be turned, correct? If that's the case, just pulling the ones on the PS is easier.

- was it difficult to get the large bolt on the crank off? Will a good socket and breaker bar do it?

- Did you need a pully puller to get the crank pully off?

- did you replace the tensioner and if so was it hard to do?

- last but not least, do you suggest replacing anything else in there while it's all torn apart?

Thanks for your patience with my long message - I was ecstatic to find someone who had completed the job I was contemplating.

Thanks,
Ron

 

TanP,
First of all, yes, I have grown a little tired of trying to keep this forum alive and clean when the owners don't seem to care about it, and I can't seem to get any help that stays around for long.
And too, yes, priorities in my life have changed a bit too. Lot's of trouble at my work, which is why I have now been unemployed (and looking for a job everyday) for nearly 3 months.
But you know what they say, once a car guy, always a car guy.
The third thing that's affected my being more active is that I am feeling a little uneducated... out of touch in the ways of these modern cars. I am having trouble answering many of the questions that are coming up these days as I am not up on the newer stuff.

As for MazdaTirol, I don't have a clue!! He has completely fallen off the face of the map. I've written to him through the forum, through Facebook as well as to his personal e-mail and gotten no response at all. I'm really wondering if something bad happened to him, but will probably never know. He was a good guy and a great moderator for the short time he was here. I miss his help and knowledge too.

But what I'm really writing this post about is the ignition system you spoke of in your OP. Were you able to confirm that the system fires one plug on the first revolution and the second plug on the exhaust stroke? This sounds odd to me, but hey, it's possible.

Years ago, I had a Nissan Stanza with 8 plugs, but it acted more like the MSD systems in high performance street and race cars, double firing one immediately after the other during the compression stroke to assure a full burn and full, efficient power, or so they claimed.

 

Virgin 1:
Be assured that your contributions as moderator and poster are much appreciated. Be assured that I understand that moderating a forum cannot be one's purpose in life and has to take a low position on the priority list. I see myself over-active but short of OCD (obsessive-compulsive disorder).....

I am also thinking about MazdaTirol. He fell off the radar after his miss hap with broken ribs. He suffered major pains from that. I only can hope and call upon the great spirit in the sky that he regained his health.

From the factory the Lima engine comes with 8 plugs, the passenger side plugs are ignition plugs, the driver side are "afterburners" apparently needed to eliminate some pollution. After all the engine was designed for the Pinto in the seventies!

You can modify your engine to dual plug ignition by re-routing the driver side wires:
How To: Dual Igniton plug mod for 2.3L and 2.5L - The Ranger Station Forums

All the best for your job search and everything else in life!

Tan

 

YankeeRon:
Yes, pulling the plugs is only to eliminate compression and to feel out TDC on Nr.1. But obviously you will inspect those plugs. I suggest pulling the one easy plug on the driver side (Nr. 2) to inspect it as well to get an idea what's going on on that side.

If I recall correctly I used an impact wrench on the crank bolt. (Harbor Freight Tools, about $50.00)

The crank pulley (harmonic balancer) came off with some gentle persuasion: 5 lbs sledge, cautiously applied.

I did not mess with the tensioner. I bought the truck not running with a new timing belt and I don't know if the tensioner was replaced by the PO.
I don't think it will be much trouble. Maybe a little harder than the springs on a drum brake. Go for it.

I did not replace anything else. I did not see any damage at the water pump, belts and bearings at the accessories. Of course you will inspect it all for obvious damage.

When I got the truck it had no coolant and the radiator was off. Obviously I put new coolant in.
Best of luck! Let us know how it goes.

 

TanProtege,

Thanks so much for the info - you've given me the confidence I needed. I think I'm going to do it and will report back. My local garage wants $500 to do the job, which definitely passes my "hassle vs. cost" limit and makes the job worth doing. Plus, I'll get my son to help me for some good 'ol knuckle busting, grease smearing, man-time.

Ron