My airbag light is flashing and the dealer says I need to replace the "SAS module" at a total cost of $558.10 (plus other repairs related to "check engine light"). I'm pretty mechanically and electrically inclined (I'm anelectricalengineer),and I've seen websites that offer module repair, or I can also find a replacement part online (eBay or other sources), both options less than $100. I can't imagine that this procedure is that complicated, provided that the correct steps are taken to ensure the airbags are not set off, etc. To begin with, I don't know where my module is located. Is this something that shouldtruly be left to the dealer, or can I save myself some $$$ here? Any advice is appreciated.

 

You can probably save a bunch of money to replace by yourself as it is not a complicated procedure. That SAS module is located in the center of the van below the dash. Will see if can pull up some pics on replace, The only precauction is to disonncect the battery for at least one minute to allow the backup battery for SAS to drain so you do not deploy the airbags when unplugging the module. Did they give you a failure code for why the SAS module needed to replaced??

 

No, they did not give me the failure code, which kind of bothered me. They just said it needed to be replaced - probably electronics went bad. Being skeptical of dealers, I took that as a way for them to make a few extra bucks. Would the standard OBDII scan reveal the code, or do they use a different scan tool for that? If it is relavent, I could get a scan done at AutoZone.

 

Autozone will not be able to retrieve an air bag code. Only engine and transmission codes typically. You can actually get the code yourself by watching how the light is flashing. This is called a lightflash code. Start with key off and then turn to "run" position. SAS light should illuminate for approx 6 seconds and then shut off. If there is a current, active failure in the system then the light will start flashing. This is outputing a code by counting the number and duration of the flashes. Long flashes ( light on for 1.5 seconds) are for the tens digit and short flashes ( light on for 1/2 second ) is a ones digit. See diagram below. Code #2 would be two short flashes followed by a pause and then repeat the two short flashes. Code #35 would be 3 long flashes, then 5 short flashes, pause and repeat. Hope that makes sense. Drawing below is a code #22. Available codes for 2000 MPV will be 1, 2, 3, 6, 7, 22, 25, 26, 32, 35, 37, 91, or just flashing constantly. See what you come up with using that.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/EB764FC967FC42E7B1CCF748AEAABCEF.gif[/IMG]

 

Awesome! Thank you. I did notice a pattern, but didn't know where to find the "secret decoder". I will check it out ASAP (wife is out with the car right now...)

 

OK, based on your instructions, it looks like a #2 code (2 short flashes followed by a 3 second pause, then repeat).

 

Had the feeling that might be the case djn. Most of the time when you get a code number there are a series of checks of various components or wiring to look at and follow a troubleshooting routine. With code #2 there is only one. Internal SAS module fault and replace the module. Nothing else. The SAS module is quite easy to replace. Couple of diagrams below to show you where everything is at. The SAS module is just to the left of the gas pedal. In the second diagram below that part on the left is the gas pedal and only a couple of nuts to remove to get out of there and replace. Part number for a new module is LC62-57-K30A and is available from www.onlinemazdaparts.com for $235.28. Dealer will run you $294.10. Just use the "Search by Factory Part Number" box and it will come up (that is a zero in the part number and not the letter O). Just remember to disconnect the negative battery cablefor 5 minutes before starting to allow the air bag back up battery to deplete and you will be completely safe and ready to replace that little bugger. Once you have replaced the air bag module do not be alarmed if when you turn the key on the light starts flashing continuously. Only means that you need to initialize the system. Again a simple procedure. Turn the key back to 'off ' position and wait for more than 1 second. Turn key back on or start the van and system should be initialized. If not the turn key back off and give a few more second before turning back on. That should get you squared away to replace yourself just fine and save a couple hundred bucks.
p.s. what was the additional repairs for the CEL. Maybe we can work on that one too.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/D9A9F800BFFB46EE9C1A4CB3C1BC795F.gif[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/B5E9A825C1C3441FA3FE85BA46CFA80F.gif[/IMG]

 

babyhuey - Again, thanks for the assistance. I very much appreciate you taking the time to respond.

I did consider the other repairs related to the CEL - more on that in a minute.I wanted to ask a few more things on the airbag. Have you ever heard of, or had experience withhttp://www.airbagsystems.com/?
They guarantee that they can repair/reprogram any airbag module for $100 or less in 1-2 days (plus shipping time). This is considerably less than the brand new module from www.onlinemazdaparts.com. So, I havea couple of questions related to removing the computer/module. You said that I only need to disconnect the battery negative cable. I've also heard that on some makes/model, you need pull a cable (airbag wire harness) from behind the steering column - not necessary on the MPV? Also, if I went the Airbag Systems repair route, can the MPV be driven while the airbag module is removed? I spoke to a rep from the company and they said yes, but that does not seem logical if I have to pull the battery cable before removing the module. It would be really embarrassing if I had to take the vehicle back in to the dealer to have the airbag repacked because I was trying to fix it myself.

Now, for the other CEL issues. It was a PO421 code (Warm-up catalyst system efficiency below threshold - Bank 1). There was a previous post on this that you had replied to and pretty much diagnosed. My right exhaust manifold is cracked, and an O2 sensor needs to be replaced (Bank 1, #2 sensor), along with some nuts & gaskets... $1,500. I have all the part numbers for the parts that need to be replaced - I just don't know where to find them on the underside of the vehicle (there's 4 O2 sensors on the MPV). If I could get my hands on the Mazda service manual for the MPV.... They listed 4 hours labor to replace the manifold, so I figured it would take me at least 2-3 times that. I only have a 2 ton floor jack and don't have the luxury of being able to walk under that car while it's on the lift. Given that, is this bugger going to be tough to do myself? I imagine the O2 sensor is a piece of cake (unscrew, unplug, & replace) even though they want to charge an hour labor for that, and it's probably already easily accessible once the manifold is off.

One other this they suggested due to my high mileage (170K miles)was an "EFI kit" which would help remove carbon deposits. It looked like a couple of bottles of something you put in the gas tank. I sort of bought into this because my gas pedal has been sticking and I've heard that can be due to carbon deposits, but I'm reluctant to pay $200 bucks for that when I can probably buy something similar at AutoZone and pour it in the gas tank myself. What do you think?

Sorry for the lengthy post. I'm trying to be thorough.

 

I like thorough djn. You can never have too much information in my opinion. No I have never heard of that website and was rather suprised that a company would offer to try and 'fix' a SAS module. In todays market of "I screwed up and was driving too fast and ran into something and my airbags didn't go off so who am I going to sue?", I am very suprised to see that a company would offer to reprogram an SAS module so that it will work again. Note the following in the site

Crash Data, Latch Codes, B1051, B1001, Nissan Code 7 and some flood damaged vehicles can be repaired at a fraction of the replacement cost.
Factory Scan Tools WILL NOT Clear these codes but WE CAN!
Don't let another dealership tell you that it can not be done.

Key word there is "Crash Data, Latch Codes, B1051, B1001, Nissan Code 7 andSOME flood damaged vehicles can be repaired ". "some" hmmmmmm. If they can fix your SAS module then all the better but would contact them first and let them know the code and vehicle that module is out of. They may not be able to "reprogram" an internal failure if it is an actual burnt outboard or internal part.
The other area that am in concern with is that this isTHE vital component to the air bag system in your van. This moduledetermines the direction and severity of impact to the vehicle andessentially you, and based upon the decisions it makes deploys the air bags as needed to hopefully give you a better shot atmaking it thru the whole damn mess in one piece. Comes down to this for me but is your decision to the end. If I were going to go skydiving I would rather have a parashute thatwas packed up and ready from the manufacturer over one that was repacked by someone else on an assembly line that has "what?" experience.Your call on that one.
You need to disconnect the battery cable and wait so that when you disconnect the air bag module connectors you do not get a voltage spike that could potentially deply one or more of the air bags. The system has a back-up battery in the event that the battery is destroyed just after impact. The SAS module would then still has enough stored up energy to deploy the air bags. The back up battery is basically a large capacitor that stores just enough juice to blow the bags in case SAS module looses main battery power. Once you have disconnected the air bag module the system is DEAD. All of the air bag components are connected directly to the module so once it is disconnected the system is completly down. Once you have removed the module you would then reconnconect the battery cable and van will operate as usual but with absolutely no air bag system in operation. Neither of our cars (91 323 and 92 mpv) have air bags so you would be driving just like I do every day, no big deal. Steering column connector is talking about older cars that only had a drivers air bag and does not relate to you.
Code P0421. Cracked exhaust manifold would definitly cause that issue. Not entirely sure that rear O2 would need to be replaced or even if the manifold/warm-up CAT would have to be replaced. A crack in the manifold is going to let oxygen into the exhaust system which is going to throw off the whole CAT check system. The rear O2 sensor is only used to check the "efficiency" of how the CAT is working. A leak upsteam of the rear O2 is going to basically throw a monkey wrench into the whole operating system checks. When the PCM runs a self check of the CAT efficiency it is comparing the readings between the upstream and downstream oxygen sensors. It is looking to see that if the upstream or front O2 sensor is reading normal then looks at the downstream O2 sensor and makes sure that it is giving a fairly steady "rich" or no oxygen in the exhaust reading. If it does not then it sets a CAT efficiency code such as you have. A exhuast leak in the manifold area could give this false reading. Not saying if the CAT is good or bad but only that the exhaust leak could be creating the problem.

 

Had to extend post to another as I ran out of number ofbits allowed.
4 hours to replace the right side manifold!!!!
warranty time only pays 1.5 hours and Mitchell and Shop Key from Snap On are both still at only 2.0 hours. Padding the bill quite a bit it seems?!?!? Replacing the manifold is not that bad of a job although I have never tried to do the job on a garage floor. Might be a bit of a challenge in that environment. Need some rather lengthy extensions to get to some of the manifold bolts but is certainly do-able.
If the EFI cleaning is only some bottles added to the tank then will not do much good. An intake cleaning is a procedure that adds a chemical into the intake air system that helps to reduce the deposits that tend to accumulate in the intake manifold. Adding something to the fuel tank will only clean the intake valves and maybe the combution chamber . If your throttle is sticking a bit then that is not that uncommon for that year MPV due to carbon build-up at the throttle plate area. Taking off the air inlet and cleaning throttle plate area with an inexpensive Throttle plate/induction cleaner spray and run of the mill old toothbrush will take care of the problem without all the added expense. An intake maniold cleaning is one thing but if you want to fix the sticking throttle you can do by yourself for under $5 and little time.

Sorry for the lengthy post but was just trying to be thorough!!