Put ya thinking caps on, this one is tricky. I have a Mazda Millenia S, I've had it for 2 years, but drove it maybe twice a month. I jumped in it yesterday to take it around the block, but battery was dead. I then proceeded to JUMP vehicle off, it started easily. I drove it around then parked in garage. I put the battery on trickle charge all night. Went back out this morning to start it up, and NOTHING. Battery read 12.6V.
So at that time I was thinking maybe starter solenoid may be sticking. So I gave it a few taps with a ball peen. Tried starting it again and it started up. Turned it off then tried again, NOTHING! After looking around, I noticed the posts on solenoid were somewhat corroded. So i took a wirebrush & sandpaper and started removing the green ****. After all was clean. I then tried again, NOTHING! I'm throwing **** now.
Here is what I'm seeing & hearing. I noticed when vehicle ran, the small digital A/C display in mid-dash, was illuminated when key was in the ON position. Now it isn't, but when I try cranking car. I hear a relay click on front/driver side engine compartment and the A/C blower motor comes on while trying to crank. But blower goes off when key is released back to the ON positon and A/C display is still off. I dont hear/feel the starter solenoid engaging. I'm getting 12.5V at (+) on solenoid. Signal wire, while key is off, is reading less than .1V, with key ON signal wire reads 4.5V, while trying to crank signal wire reads 4.4V.
RANDOM INFO: Vehicle was in minor front end collision, Vehicle was bought from the north so undercarriage has medium rust due to salt,
I've unbolted and cleaned all grounds I can find. I"m clueless at this point. If anyone has had this problem or have any ideas. Any info given would be greatly appreciated. If u need any more info write me back and I'll get it to you. Thanks for your time.

 

have you tried jumping it again? batteries can show good voltage, but have no cranking power. just because it got trickle charged, dont mean it has enough power to crank.

 

Yes I've tried jumping it again, but same problem still occurs. I'm goin to look at it a little more tomorrow, and I'll update.

 

does it crank? i was having the same problem with no cranking,id open the hood,wiggle this and that and it would start. a few days later ,no cranking and would do the same thing. one day i happen to push the gear shift forward, wala... starts every time now. nuetral safety switch wasnt contacting good i guess.may check into that

 

No it doesn't crank. I've ran the shifter through all gears, but haven't held it in any position but I'll try it.

The thing thats still trippin me out. Is that the A/C blower fan comes on only while trying turning the ignition & the digital A/C display is off when key is ON. I've checked ALL fuses I can find.

 

it SOUNDS like an ignition switch problem, but i aint no master tech, and i have never encountered this problem. did a bunch on bmw. talk about strange, on an E39 5 series, to diagnose the ign switch, you pull open the passenger side visor and turn on the vanity lite. if the radio comes on, the ign switch is bad. 100%. people would laugh at me, but after they did it, amazement.

 

At todays end, I'm leaning towards ignition switch as well. Because now the blower motor is kicking in intermittently while tryin to start. I've tested relays, continuity through wires, and ! And this all sucks because I have to get it running to address other problems, like why TCS/TCS OFF lights comes on & puts vehicle in LIMP mode. Thank you all for your help.

 

now, i've had that. quite common for the 2.3. there is a row of solenoids that live over the right bank, to the driver's side of the egr valve. if you pull the codes, most likely it is 1525/26 and 1540. those are abv vacuum and vent, and the abv itself. if you ohm the solenoids, esp when they are hot, you can tell. good is 26-30. if they ohm hi, like 50+, or 0, they are done. also, the car has 21 ft of vacuum line. if the abv circuit is leaking, you will pull the same codes, and the car will go limp home.

 

I pulled codes on it last year, and I recall the P1540 being pulled. It had a couple more I think but not sure if it was the 1525/26. I remember it saying ABV vent solenoid or something like that.

I located the row of 'noids. The Ohm range u gave me, does that apply to all of them?

 

the vent is second from the right, and the vacuum is closest to the driver. both these are ohm'd, the other 2 i have never heard of causing a problem. but you need to also check the vacuum lines that control these. to get at the vacuum lines, you have to pull off the intake. quite a job, not hard, but long. if you havent done it yet, this would be a good time to change the sparkplugs, too.