I apologize in advance if the answer already exists here, but I searched various threads looking for a usable diagram to locate the purge control valve for a 1996 Millenia S. I found two links for diagrams here. One is at milleniatech.net - Documentation, which seems to be defunct. The other, EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM (2300CC). Fits: 1999 Mazda Millenia | Jim Ellis Mazda, which I cant really make sense of.

Does somebody have a picture (in place on the vehicle) or a better diagram that I can use to locate this check valve?

 

https://www.mediafire.com/folder/ral...eunos_%20files

you also can see it in the attachment, if it works(look for the dark blue vacuum line, it connects to the purge solenoid), i have never done this before. as far as where it is, and i am talking about the purge control solenoid, it is really hard to see. it is underneath the row of 4 solenoids next to the egr valve, and if you follow the vacuum line from the egr valve, you will see the line go to a bracket with 3 solenoids on it. 2 solenoids are right next to each other, connected by another vacuum line, and the purge solenoid is to the driver's side of these 2 solenoids. it has it's own bracket, which attaches to the bracket with the other 2 solenoids, i think with 1 6mm stud, and a 10mm(wrench size) nut. i have never heard of this solenoid going bad, but with the age of these cars, anything can happen. please post your solution. actually, post both your problem, and your fix if you do fix it

 

Thanks! The diagrams and the wiring diagram helped a lot to identify the evap purge valve. Especially the color codes of the wiring diagram (for the evap purge valve white with a black stripe and red with a black stripe) helped me identify the evap purge control valve.

One issue with the vehicle is a P0443 code. The other is that the HC emissions are slightly high at 56 ppm when the max (allowed) is 54. So the car does not smog. The car shows some blue smoke sometimes at startup (and sometimes during acceleration) and sometimes smokes from the engine compartment although it has not done the latter for at least 400 miles. But mostly the car seems to run just fine.

I have replaced the gas cap and cleared the codes but P0443 keeps showing up after running the car for just a bit.

So I wanted to determine if the evap solenoid was bad. Now that I have identified it I have to figure out how to reach in and give it a continuity test with the connector removed. I have got the connector off, but there is so little room I cant place my ohmmeter leads in. I suppose I could purchase an extra connector, have looked but have not had any luck finding one.

 

I have the valve disconnected from the chassis (with the hoses still attached) and twisted the valve so the connector faced up. From there I can check that the solenoid gives 0.4 Ohms of continuity. So it seems to pass that test. Now I have to figure out the other solenoid tests.

 

iirc, the solenoid only has one nut holding it to the bracket. also, there is a separate harness that connects to the main harness, and the separate harness connects several solenoids, i dont remember if the purge is one of them. the 2 harness' connect on the firewall side of the 4 solenoids near the egr valve. has you/anyone been doing any work in that area, and possibly disconnected any of the solenoids? on the separate harness, there are 2 connectors that can be switched, the rest will only fit one solenoid. also, because of the location, those wires back there get a lot of heat from the rear precat, but again, i have never heard/encountered problems with the connectors or the harness. the vast majority of the problems come from the vacuum line, it gets old and brittle, and it will break and leak. also, there are 2 one way valves, they are really hard to see, you have to remove the intake, then most of the vacuum lines, and the problem tees lie between the compressor and the rear head. the one way valves are green and white, and sometimes will fail. also, if you have never changed the vacuum lines, i can guarantee you one or both of these valves will break because the heat cycles have welded the vacuum line on. they are pricey, too, about 26 bucks each. i think your problem is vacuum related, simply because of the many problems stemming from the vacuum/solenoid system. there are 13 solenoids and 21 feet of vacuum line. you can test a solenoid using a 9 volt battery. however, i know for sure that when heated, the value changes, especially on the abv vacuum/vent solenoids, which are the most popular ones to fail