I have a 94 mazda 626 and it stalls on every stop and everytime is below 1000 rev. Mostly after it warms up. Could this be the MAF sensor or the aic. Does anybody know how to test the MAF and the aic with the multimeter. I check for codes and did not get nothin. the timing belt and timing is good too.

 

how does it shut off like you turn the key or stumbiles if its like the key ck the elec. system if it stumbles ck gas, fuel, trans. if it's elec. i would first ck very good the cap and rotorand etc.

 

No, it just chokes on every stop and stalls. I have to step on the pedal little by little so it wont turn of. After that, when the rev are above 2000 or Im at the freeway, it does not do it. I checked all the basic like rotor etc. I need the info on the testing of the maf and the aic sensor with the multimeter. I even checked the fuel pressure and its good.

The only things I think it coul be is the MAF, o2 sensor or the aic. I just want to do the test on each to make sure which part is the one I need to buy. Last thing that could be is the ecu.

 

Sounds like vacuum or air intake leak. A cheap and easy way to check if your IAC is doing its job is to get the engine running and unplug it. The engine revs should drop, engine maybe even stalls.
I've got a bit of stuff on MAF's, some of it is pretty complex. I'll dig around for something more practical and post it on here.
How many miles on your car? Regularly maintained? Manual or automatic? What type of engine ? Any mods?

 

OK here's the MAF stuff.
My car is a '99 Protege 1.8L FP engine, but I'm pretty sure the MAF is the same, although you may have the MAF/Air temp. sensor combo.
There are 3 wires connected to the MAF. A black/violet one goes to chassis via the ECU ground. A red/white one goes to the switched +12V service. The green/black one is the MAF signal to the ECU. To measure the MAF performance in situ, you'll need to get a fine sewing needle, and with a pair of pliers, push it through the insulation of the green black MAF signal wire to make contact with the conductors.
Connect a voltmeter with -ve to chassis ground (or battery -ve, and the +ve lead to the needle.
With ignition on, but engine stopped, the voltmeter should read a bit +ve, less than 1 volt say. With the engine running at idle you should observe a +ve increase; wind the revs up to about 3000 rpm and you should be at +2.5 volts or so. If the MAF is unresponsive, or the idle voltage is greater than +4.9 volts, the MAF is shot.
While the voltage is in the 2.5 volt range, tap the MAF with the handle of a screwdriver and make sure the voltage doesn't jump wildly.
With the MAF out, you can use a 9 volt smoke detector battery to power the MAF and use a hair dryer (on cold) to provide a variable airflow to check the responsiveness and smoothness; just don't blow the crap out of it though.
When you've checked the MAF, use a bit of nail varnish, rubber cement or whatever to seal the puncture at the needle site.

 

you know their is a easier way to test your map sensor by pressing it in ( inside the sensor push the dome pice in) if the car dies its good if nothing its bad oh the car has to be running so get someone to hold ther idle up