Weber Convo's

I've been looking at doing this conversion for a little, since my truck is just waiting to be put back together.  anywho, i was on mazdatruckin.com and looked at the install instructions and the kits they list are the K675 and the K75-38 which are the 32/36mm DGEV and the 38mm DGES, but i was also on ebay looking for these kits and saw a Weber K675-34 kit which is cheaper than the other two and is said to work for the same year range
 
So i was just wondering which kit most people opt for, i'm assuming the K675.  But if the 34 kit works i would lean towards that because the price difference, fitty bucks Is fitty bucks, i just wanna know which kit would be prime for my B2000.
 
Daaaanks

I have the K675 kit (32/36 DGEV) on my '88 B2200, two years now.  I believe the 34 kit has throttle on opposite side and I've heard doesn't work as well.  See what others say.

all the little details help, thanks, how easy was the converson. on mazdatruckin they reccomend installing a fuel pressure regulator, did you get one or does your truck run fine without it? my truck is going through quite a change, it broke down a few months ago, i have the motor stripped to a long block, my head has a stripped #2 spark hole, which im going to have rebuilt, i've been cleaning and degreasing all the parts i pull off even the block has been brushed clean, mods from this point that im looking at:

• new radiator/ hoses
  
• flex-a-lite fan
  
• ignition coil
  
• o2 sensor
  
• gasket set
  
• thermostat
  
• pcv valve
  
• regular air filter(eliminate the 2ndary airsupply)
  
• cap/rotor
  
• all new vacuum hose
  
• head rebuild, when this is rebuilt, would it be worth looking at a new cam? i read someting about towing cams...
  
• A/C eliminated

thats basically what im lookin at doing, once i have the parts to put it back together im going to have to put my old carb back on at first to see if my truck even starts, do some tuning, then try and save as fast as possible to do the weber conversion.  it seems like one of the easiest power gains to do. other questions i have are about the electrical plugs from the factory carb, and to the conversion, do i like the connection just dangle in the wiring harness, and the vacuum do i just cap them off?
 
thanks for ann neh theng

I ran mine without a fuel pressure regulator, then added one from EMPI; I really can't tell much difference, my '88 has stock (replacement) mechanical fuel pump.  If you do convert to Weber, you won't need the oxygen sensor, so nix that.  I left the wiring harnesses to the carb circuits in the engine compartment, but wrapped them well with wire covers.  All vacuum ports are plugged/capped, except for the one to the distributor vacuum advance and one which goes to the manifold valve then to the EGR.
 
Comments about Weber K675 kit for Mazda B2200 1988 (Weber 32/36 DGEV)
 
Buy some extra 5/32 inch vacuum hose for stuff like the distributor vacuum advance, and some vacuum block-off caps (or use vacuum hose and golf tees).
 
Instructions detailed a 6mm hex/allen key being required for the adapter screws; actually, it was a 5mm hex key required, and I cut down a 5mm L-shaped hex key with a hacksaw to use in my 5mm socket so I could use my torque wrench to get 12 ft-lb of torque like the instructions stated.
 
Bottom adapter plate needs to be ground away around the intake manifold PCV inlet, best if a bench grinder is available; there is a picture showing this, why couldn’t manufacturer just take care of this?
I replaced the brittle, hard PCV tubing with 3/8 inch fuel line.
 
The supplied carb mounting studs are too long (they are the same length as those removed from the intake manifold).  A shorter one is needed for the rear right location to have clearance to get the nut on; I had to cut one shorter for that spot.  I’d also advise installing the studs BEFORE mounting the top adapter, there’s no other way to make sure that they don’t get installed too deeply.
 
The top adapter plate could go in either of two orientations as it’s not symmetrical.  I still don’t know which way is correct, not shown instructions.
 
I’d recommend using the 12mm head nuts from the Mazda to mount the carb itself, as the supplied ones have a 13mm head (the threads are the same).  This will provide more clearance for tightening.  These 12mm head nuts are available from Japanese vehicle parts counters or as JIS nuts at places like Ace Hardware.
 
The instructions did not mention how to mount the return spring at the bottom; it turns out that there was an almost-oval bracket with two holes included for mounting in the place where the dashpot was, but no mention of the bracket was in the instructions.  It's actually better to mount it on the rearmost EGR valve bolt.
 
One side of the two air cleaner clamps for the rear need to be ground down a little so that they seat fully into the bottom groove; if not, they will hit the carb itself.
 
There should have been a right-angle adapter for the crankcase ventilation hose; the supplied one points down, making it difficult to attach to the valve cover outlet because of the bends required.  I used a brass right-angle 3/8 tubing fitting and 15/32 smog hose for this; I saw in a photo of a kit online where a right-angle adapter is shown.  The hole in the air cleaner bottom was just a pinch too small for the supplied adapter anyway, so I had to ream the hole a little larger.
 
Instructions should’ve stated to re-route the choke wire more to the front of the engine so that no extension to the wire would be needed.
 
I added a L-shaped bracket to the supplied accelerator cable bracket for my add-on Audiovox cruise control.  I ‘broadened” the cable groove using a small vise-grip as the cruise control cable was a little to the side.  I used a 2 inch corner brace mounted to one of the now-unused valve cover holes to attach the accelerator and cruise control cables with a cable tie, to keep them off the hot valve cover.
 
I used three #2 rubber stoppers from Ace Hardware to seal off the reed valves.
 
Instructions did not state whether I needed to put any oil like K&N on the new air cleaner element.
 
Instructions were not clear about the EGR valve connection.  Apparently they meant that the vacuum hose that went to the thermo valve (underneath the manifold, has two vacuum ports at an angle) now goes to the EGR port on the carb.  This is the port just rearward of where the distributor vacuum advance goes, but the small brass cap needs to be unscrewed first with a tiny screwdriver. 
Photos are posted at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2334519/1
 
From K6  K6@MazdaTruckin.Com
 
The 2 vacuum ports coming out of the weber, you don't use both of them. One you plug, the other you run to the thermovalve and then from the thermovalve to the distributor vacuum advance. This is so that the advance doesn't work until the engine warms up. I don't think it really matters that much because distributor has a mechanical advance/governor mechanisim built into it as well.

EGR vacuum can be plugged. Without the other systems the computer can no longer operate the EGR. I would keep the PTC heater installed as it will help with de-icing on cold days.
 

im getting closer and closer to the point where i gotta decide on doing this. so theres some modifying and other things to get creative on.  i pulled out my water thermo valve and when i did this a brittle nipple broke off, is the thermo valve necessary???  does this conversion eliminate all the vacuum on the passenger inner fender, all of it gets plugged??? and what about the emmissons canister, and all of its hoses that used to run to the carb and air box???
 
just some more brain pickin, thanks

The water thermo valve on mine is in the circuit from my Weber to water thermo valve to EGR valve.  If you have Weber you probably don't have emissions laws where you live for these older vehicles, so you could block off the EGR valve or just plug up the line to it, so it will remain closed off.  Aside from the EGR, the only vacuum line I have goes to the distributor.  There is a connection to my vacuum cannister as well.  See the photos at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2334519/1

i put the 675 kit on my 91 b2200 2.2 and now it will not make it up a hill i put a new fuel pump and then a aftermarket helper and it helped but did not fix it any ideas i am lost

In your shoes I'd first check accelerator cable (to make sure it opens the carb completely when the pedal is fully pressed down). 
 
Next fuel pump Pressure test (and just why did you also replace your fuel pump???). Disconnect the fuel inlet line at the carburetor (you DID replace those all correctly when you installed the new fuel pump, right ???) - be very careful, gasoline is very flammable !!! . Connect a pressure gauge, a restrictor and a flexible hose between the fuel filter and the carburetor. Position the flexible hose and restrictor so that the fuel can be discharged into a suitable graduated container. Before taking a pressure reading, operate the engine at idle speed and vent the system into the container by momentarily opening the hose restrictor. Close the hose restrictor and allow the pressure to stabilize and note the reading. It should be 2.8–3.6 psi or 3.6–5.0 psi on the Rotary Pick-Up.
If the pump pressure is not within specifications, and the fuel filter and fuel lines are not blocked, the pump is malfunctioning and should be replaced. If the pressure is within specifications, perform the volume test.
Volume Test
Open the hose restrictor and expel the fuel into the container, while observing the time required to discharge 1 pint. Close the restrictor. Fuel pump volume should be approximately 2 pints/minute.

the truck runs good on flat ground it just acts like it runs out of gas on hill or real long strech of highway. weber told me to block off the return line and that helped so they told me to buy a piggy back pump but it still does it

SWEEET, just got my weber yesterday!. where did you run your elec. choke wire too? i heard of on dude running it straight to his (+) ignition coil... and also just pluggin off the egr. i broke my water thermo valve and i was just gonna plug that hole on the intake and run my distributor adv. from the vacuum right next to the egr...
 
i saw both of those done on daBscene. if you have anyother ideas im still open, just shootin for the stars here

The Weber electric choke wire plugs into the rear of the alternator, not sure of the color as it's nighttime here.  You can either run the EGR vacuum directly or off the water valve or not at all or make an EGR block-off plate.  The EGR valve itself will function as a block off plate if there's no vacuum to it, and its internal spring-loaded valve is closed.

just bought a 87b2600 4x4 installed the 34 dgec didnt want to spend the extra money on a $300 truck for the 38. seems to run fine it has 33s on the rear and 31s on the front way too big on the back.

I just threw my weber on and it still hasn't even seen the road

I am fairly pissed at webber. the jets they gave me are not for my altitude and I have the idle mixture screw out eight turns, it should be two at the max is says.  assholes now I have to buy a jet kit.   for a hundred dollars . and dick around with it. better be worth it.  wont even idle until its warm and spits and chugs even after that.  thats when im at stop light or whatnot in gear.. just pissed off becuase there instructions are horrible, they have you grind an adapter plate and well, the jetting.     F00ey ! :D 

actually its not my jets. they might be fine. I think i was stupid and did not get all the vaccum hoses. I pluged a couple with my finger and it did stuff to the engine. My bad, weber might be a great carb but the instructinos are shit. i mean come on,  fax copy stappled together instructions ?  a lot can be done in that department. but I am just happy my truck is going now. synthetic oil stopped a lot of the smoke.  as well as  the vac hoses being plugged