Sputtering

New member to the site. Great information!
 
We have a 2003 MPV (58k miles). We had the O2 sensor replaced (not sure which one) about 10k  miles ago and recently had the 60K mile service performed at the dealer.
 
It just started sputtering at idle and as we accelerate. Any help would be great since we just spent a load at the dealer for the big service.

I have a 2002 MPV ES (76k miles) and had the 80k service performed at the dealer.

A week afterwards, I started to notice a similar stutter while at idle at a stop light.

Two weeks later, I still have the issue and also during acceleration at low speeds (20-40 mph).

Anyone know what's going on?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Two things that have been creating some rough run problems on both of your vans. The PCV hose becomes deteriorated and ruptures creating a large vacuum leak. This one you can usually hear as there will usually be a hissing type noise present at roughly center back area of the engine. This hose was recalled for replacement some time back with a more rigid and oil resistant hose. Would not typically create the stutter on accel though.
You most probably have a ignition coil(s) that are failing or have already failed. Very common problem on the 02 and later MPV's. Unless your CEL comes on with a specific missfire code P0301-P0306 it will be extremely difficult to determine which one(s) are failing. The MPV is very bad about not setting missfire codes and am surprised that this has not become an issue with Mazda.
The dealer does have the capability of a missfire check with the latest Mazda diagnostic tool or IDS. It will actually monitor for missfire on a real time basis during a test drive to determine which cylinder is causing the missfire and stuttering you are feeling.

My 2000 MPV has been giving me a #6 cylinder misfire code for the last couple of months.  It happens about once a week and then clears itself.  I have been told the coil probably needs to be replaced.  It has one (instead of six).  My mechanic tells me I can probably replace it myself.  How difficult is this job?

My wife has a 98 MPV which started sputtering after it gets hot. It seems to be worst upon acceleration. Sometimes it will lose all power but rarely stalls. After pulling over for about 5 minutes, upon restart it will run fine for a short period of time then acts up again. Changed fuel and air filter, also blew out the mass air flow sensor. Any Help? 

What kind of other repairs have been tried on the 2000 MPV clymore?? Think I would want to start with spark plugs and plug wires before the more expensive and less probably coil.
 
Sputtering on a hot accel sounds more like an ignition system problem Tim MPV. Would start by checking the secondary ignition components such as plugs, wire, distributor cap and rotor as a start. Distributor cap center buttons getting burnt up and causing missfire are not at all uncommon on older MPV and expessially noticeable after engine warm-up.

Thank You, I will try new  plugs, wires, rotor and distributer cap. I will let you know how it turns out.

babyhuey

I saw something somewhere that said the catalytic converter might be stopped up, would that cause stuttering and loss of power after it gets hot? Also then when you stop and restart the engine it will clear up for a short period.
you da man!

Baby Huey
 
Help-- Tried new plugs, rotor button, wires and dist. cap. Still no luck. I took it back to Auto Zone to put on the tester and it showed 11 codes this time. A friend said it is probably the computer. I pulled it out to see if it was getting very hot and noticed that the that when I shut the engine off and let the green relay click before restarting, it would clear up for a short period. Computer or relay? Would the mass airflow cause so many codes?
 
Thank You
Tim 

11 codes!!!!! Sounds like you hit the jackpot Tim MPV. 
 
Did you happen to write them all down?? That many codes does often indicate a faulty control system such as the PCM but not necessarily. Have seen a faulty air flow meter create a bunch of codes if it is grounding out the 5 volt reference signal from the PCM but have also seen some do the same that do not set a single code at all. Your air flow meter does not actually get this reference voltage but instead gets regular battery voltage from the main relay.
 If you could list the code numbers, that could point us into a direction with something in common with all. You also mentioned letting the green relay click after shutting off the engine and then problem would clear up for a while. Do you know what this relay is for? or at least where it is at? Is this relay down by the computer under the passenger floorboard? How long does it take after shutting off the engine before this relay clicks?

The green relay is down at the PCM. It takes about 3to5 seconds to reset. The codes start with the mass air flow then things like fuel air, engine speed,idle speed something about man. control sensor and many more. I have them written down but they are not with me. I ordered a used MAF off of EBAY yesterday. Hopefully I will receive that soon and fix the problem. If that does not work I will try the PCM or relay. Any more ideas?
 
Thank You So Much

The green relay down by the PCM should be the fuel pump relay. Should not be staying energized after shutting off the engine with key. Will have to take a closer look at the wiring diagram to see what could be causing it to remain energized for that length of time. Would not think that it should cause the problem as it should be energized anytime engine is running so that power is provided to the fuel pump unless it has perhaps a corroded internal contact that is maybe only allowing 6 volts to the fuel pump instead of the full 12 volts which would run pump at barely half capacity. Perhaps we should just bypass the relay altogether and see if it is causing the problem. A fuel pressure check would probably show up this being a fault as well but not many have a high pressure fuel gauge to hook up and see. If you ever get a chance to post up all of those code numbers it may point us in a better direction as well.

Baby Huey,
These are the codes you asked for.
P0100
P0110
P0141
P0420
P0725
P1170
P1566
P1601
P1790
P1792
P1170
 
THANK YOU

That is quite an impressive list. Oddly enough they are about 50:50 split between engine computer codes and transmission computer codes. Lets sort them out as such..
 
Engine computer or PCM codes.
 
P0100 Mass air flow circuit malfunction
P0110 Intake air temp sensor circuit malfunction ( within the MAF sensor )
P0141 Rear O2 heater circuit malfunction
P0420 Catalytic converter efficiency below limit
P1170 Front O2 sensor inversion (signal staying too rich )
 
Transmission or TCM codes
 
P0725 RPM circuit malfunction
P1566 Back up power supply to TCM below 5 volts
P1601 Communication line error between PCM and TCM
P1790 Throttle position input signal open or short
P1792 Baro pressure input circuit malfunction
 
Would be most curious to see what codes were to be reset if they were all cleared and then van driven for a day or so. The P0100 and P0110 could have been set by having MAF disconnected when trying to start van and so on with some of the other codes. One that is odd is the P1566. That is simply the power input for the TCM thru the 15 amp ROOM fuse. Make sure that fuse is ok and power is at it as well.
One commonality that I am seeing is a ground point on the engine TIM. Mass air flow is grounded thru a ground on the engine near the distributor. There are two of them right in the immediate area. Ground wires should be bolted directly to the engine with like a 10 mm bolt. The first is #4 ground and only has two wires to it. Black and Black w/orange stripe. The ground we are really concerned with should be right next to it with five wires to it. several black ones and also some that are black w/orange stripe and also red stripe. This one ground point is the one for the MAF as well as the single solitary ground point for the TCM. It also happens to be the primary ground point for the engine computer. Loose this ground and all kinds of havoc could be created. Would definitely be locating that gound, removing bolt, and cleaning. Might even run a separate wire under the bolt when reinstalling and running other end directly to negative battery post. Gee I hope it is as easy as that.
 

I will let you know how things turn out.
 
Thank You once again

Please do. Am very interested to see what the outcome will be. Hope that is the problem but still have that little nagging doubt. Do not know yet why the fuel pump relay is refusing to click off when engine and key is shut off as it is a direct control from the PCM. Will keep at the wiring diagram to see if I can see anything else the could be a potential problem having to do with that extensive code list. The catalyst efficiency code is one that is probably going to be due to weak cat and O2 heater is most often just due to heater circuit within sensor failing although have seen this code being set due to simply low battery resulting in large drop in available voltage to system during engine cranking prior to startup. Keep us informed as to what you discover.

quote:

ORIGINAL: babyhuey

Two things that have been creating some rough run problems on both of your vans. The PCV hose becomes deteriorated and ruptures creating a large vacuum leak. This one you can usually hear as there will usually be a hissing type noise present at roughly center back area of the engine. This hose was recalled for replacement some time back with a more rigid and oil resistant hose. Would not typically create the stutter on accel though.
You most probably have a ignition coil(s) that are failing or have already failed. Very common problem on the 02 and later MPV's. Unless your CEL comes on with a specific missfire code P0301-P0306 it will be extremely difficult to determine which one(s) are failing. The MPV is very bad about not setting missfire codes and am surprised that this has not become an issue with Mazda.
The dealer does have the capability of a missfire check with the latest Mazda diagnostic tool or IDS. It will actually monitor for missfire on a real time basis during a test drive to determine which cylinder is causing the missfire and stuttering you are feeling.

Hello all, I'm new to this forum and actually joined to try to gather some info on what's happening to my wife's van.  babyhuey, you pretty much nailed my car's symptoms, at least as far as the hissing goes. This started sometime last week, but the sound was very minimal, very low and has progressively gotten louder.  I am also experiencing severe stuttering, shaking at idle which is only minimally relieved by placing the car in neutral while sitting at a light.  I guess my question(s) would be:

a)can either of these be replaced without too much fanfare? 

I know my way around my Mustang, but have not looked under my wife's car at all. That usually goes to the shop, but funds are low as I'm between jobs right now, so I'll as much as I can before going that route. 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

This is deja-vu.

My wife's van is showing the same symptoms -- for the FOURTH TIME.  The first three times were under warranty -- faulty ignition coil.  The dealer replaced it and it ran perfect for 8 - 12 months.  Then it happened two more times, both under warranty.

Now it is out of warranty and (I'm assuming) the fourth coil is going.  Its already dropped off at the dealer so there is no turning back now.  But a buddy at work tells me this is something simple that I can do.  Mind you, oil changes and the occasional tuneup (20 years ago!) is about where I am at mechanically.

Thanks for commenting -- flite.

I have a 2001 Mazda MPV.  I took it to Auto Zone and the code was P0300.  I did find the PCV tube and the tube I believe was replaced.  It it a hard plastic tube with a rubber "L" shaped boot on it.  That boot has a big hole in it.  It hisses really loud.  Is that in direct connection with the P0300 code??  If it is, can I just replace the boot?  And if so, is it a dealer part only?  Will this get rid of my random missfire code or am I looking at a coil problem?  My check engine light is not solid.  It is flashing.  Could you help me out??? 

y)

quote:

ORIGINAL: babyhuey
...Sputtering on a hot accel sounds more like an ignition system problem Tim MPV. Would start by checking the secondary ignition components such as plugs, wire, distributor cap and rotor as a start. Distributor cap center buttons getting burnt up and causing missfire are not at all uncommon on older MPV and expessially noticeable after engine warm-up.

 
I have a '97 V6 4x4 with symptoms similar to "Tim MPV" : Hesitation sputtering, misfire.
I followed this whole thread and tried many of the same things: cleaned MAS, new air filter & plugs (seemed to help for about 60 miles).
I have NOT checked upstream plug wires, dist, rotor yet.
Guessing I should check coil as well?
I also pulled the fuel pump and not a spec of corrosion in the tank anywhere, and the entire pump assembly looks pristine.
I was hoping Tim MPV would've posted a response with the fix (if any).
Anybody have a clue for me?