rear wheel well liner

Our 3's rear wheel well is not well protected, comparing to the two front wheel wells.
Espacially on the rear left wheel well, from there you can see the muffler. Anyone have any idea how to add a plastic liner to protect the metal part of the wheel well, and also for the strut tower plate and bolts? I can imagin the rust will begin from there, this is going to be a really useful mod if we could put our heads together to figure it out......

I put in rhino liner with a piece of plastic to protect all the wheel wells

quote:

ORIGINAL: MrSpike118

I put in rhino liner with a piece of plastic to protect all the wheel wells

Great! Mr. Spike, Would you mind to share some details? esp. how to attach the liner to the wheel well arch? Thanks.

Come on people, I know you are out there contemplating......we need to see your ideas. We can find 1/8" plastic pieces, my sticky point is how to attach it to the wheel arch, I don't want to drill holes there simply because that''' speed up the rust around the holes. There's a fin-like structure on the back wall in the wheel well that have a few holes that can be used to fasten the plastic.

Also I am trying to find a few bolt thread cover for the bolts on the strut plate (two each side), the thread started to show rust now. Any ideas?

 
Win,
I have to admit that I haven't spent any time thinking about the rear wheel well.  I live in Texas where things generally don't rust... too fast. 
 
However, I think I have the perfect solution to saving the threads on your threaded bolts.
1. Clean the threads as completely as you can.
2. Plumber's Silicone Grease.  GREAT STUFF, but costly too. (around $3.00 for a little "pot" but it goes a long way.) Completely waterproof, safe and very weather resistant too.  I use this stuff on my sway bar bushings and they work quietly and very well.
3. Universal vacuum port covers.  At any decent parts store, or buy a selection from good ole' JCWhitney.  You can get a whole box of 'em in different sizes for around $15+/-.
 

I cant ever amagine why this is a problem. You dont see cars rusting out like in the 70's or early 80's. How long do you plan to own this car? My dodge neon was 7 years old and had 115,000 mile and it didnt have any rust. the first 5 year of its life was in New England so it saw plenty of salt and snow.
God I'm bitchy today.

quote:

ORIGINAL: eastcoaster

God I'm bitchy today.

 
 Ya.  I notice that too.  Perhaps you should have your hormones checked, EC.  Are you going through menopause too (like my wife is?)
 
 

I can be paranoid and obsessed too sometimes......I usually drive my cars to grave yard, just replaced my 20 year-old Toyota Corolla with the 3 so you can see. The Corolla has rusted through on the rear wheel wells. My other car is an MPV (2000, 7 years old), bought it when I was in Northern Califnornia, and took it with me in 2001 to upstate NY. It started to show rust on the rear well arch, and there's a palm size rust patch on the rear side panel that's connected to the rear wheel arch.

Anyways, thanks to Virgin1 for his good advise on the thread saver, I'm tempting to leave work to look for the product right now.

Vrigin, I got the Silivon Grease from Home Depot, the guy at HD does not even know what it is, i found out for him in the pile of soldering flux boxes. It's GOOD stuff, I had to wash my hands a few times to het it off my fingers, and water still could not stand. Thanks!

BTW, where's Mr. Spike? show up man, tell us about your Rhino liner!

I have often found that the geniuses at HD are less knowledgeable than I am... and they turned me down for a job one time too. Their loss.
I once went in for a new anode rod for my electric water heater.  I couldn't find one on their shelves so I asked this guy who claimed to have been a plumber for 30 yrs before he retired and took this job.  He said he'd never heard of an anode rod for a water heater... and we have lots of very hard water in these parts too. (29-32 ppm, considered VERY high.)
Another time I had a project and a way to do it in mind.  I decided to ask the guys there anyway to see if they had a better way.  To make a long story shorter, I had 4 guys there.  Some had ideas of their own, others couldn't fathom what I was talking about but in the end, they all agreed that I had the best idea.
I've completely lost faith in asking HD employees (or Lowes, for that matter) for their knowledge.  Most don't seem to have a clue.

Glad to be of help, Win.
Try it on your sway bar bushings... oh, Hell, try it on EVERYTHING!!!  I do and it works great!
I have a storm door on my home w/a continuous (piano style) hinge that when the sun hits it, squeaks like crazy.  It was driving me nuts cause everything I tried would work for a little while, then melt away. I finally cleaned off all the excess I could and lubed it up with silicone grease.  No problems since.
 
 

Thanks again. I had a good laugh for the 30-year plumber at HD who does not know the anode rod......The sway bar on my MPV broke a few years ago at the bushing, lots of $$$ were charged by the dearlership......I certainly will apply the grease to both cars on the swaybar joints. (and I'll give up on the wheel well liner for now, too much stuff there, multilink suspension, brake lines etc., I *need* to tell myself to take it easy......nothing lasts forever.)