Mud Flap Installation.

Rear Mud Flaps are quite easy.  The driver side one requires some work due to an extra box in the wheel well. 

The clip/screws on the rear are of the 1/4 turn variety.  Once popped up, pull out the middle screw, then using a flat bladed screw driver remove the outer portion.  Then the remaining screws as per instruction sheet and all is as okay.

Of course on the front they used a different tab/screw than the rear.  These fully unscrew like screws.  They may just spin instead of unscrewing though.  If so, insert a flat bladed screwdriver under the outer ring and put just enough pressure up to allow you to unscrew this with a short phillips screwdriver.  Now using the flat bladed screwdriver remove the outer portion.   Save this as you will be re-using it on the Mud Flaps.  The out portion will need the prongs re-compressed before you can re-insert it later. 

The fronts were a bit trickier due to the instruction to pull the old flap forward to remove. 

Problem with following the instructions is that the rear portion is behind the fender and so you cannot do this.   I also found you do not have to cut the locking tab as per the instructions.  It flexes enough to just move it out of the way when removing the old flap and when installing the new Mud flaps.

Solution to the cannot move it forward to remove:

• Push inner rear portion forward enough to release flap from retaining tab in slot under car.  
  
• Since the Mud Flaps come with a new tab for the hole in the side (Hole A in pictures) I now just flext the front of old flap outward until the tab in hole A pops loose and flap comes free.
• Still must remove tab in hole A as you cannot easily use this one and get the new Mud flaps on.
  • Insert flat blade screw driver from the front between fender and wheel well until you compress the front retaining tab on the clip in Hole A while pulling on tab with pliers.  Tab will pop out.

Now clean area and then clean wheel well portion where new double sided tape will attach with alchohol to insure a good stick
Now leave the covering sheet on the double sided tap until flap is installed in both clips.
Fit flap onto tab under car and then push rearward and up to align tab in hole A until it clicks in.
Now flex front top portion in wheel well forward enough to pull covering plastic sheet of tape with tweezers.  Press tape firmly against wheel well.  Now insert the screw/clip outer portion through MudFlap into hole in the wheelwell.  Now screw in the center portion.

Presto you are done. 

Repeat on the other side.

Done.



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You best add an additional truck sized mudflap to the front. Have it stick down at least 4 inches below factory extension. If you don't, you WILL lose paint from the bottom of the doors! You might also put the clear gaurd over the paint below that line at bottom of doors.

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ORIGINAL: altaski

You best add an additional truck sized mudflap to the front. Have it stick down at least 4 inches below factory extension. If you don't, you WILL lose paint from the bottom of the doors! You might also put the clear gaurd over the paint below that line at bottom of doors.

Yes, the amount of flap is not much more than the stocker...  I am now thinking about the best way to add some rubber extensions to them without it lookiing too flakey...

Regarding the paint chips, lower portion of the side of my car from the mud flap to the rear mud falp is covered by a plastic rock guard which does stick out to the side wider than the door and comes up to the bottom of the doors.   You kicked rocks above that and chipped your doors?

Yes. The black plastic gaurd does not protect the door at all. My paint is completely frosted on that lower 4 inches on the door. And from only one trip on cinder covered snow of about 20 miles! This was before I added large aftermarket mudflaps, but with the factory extensions.

It is good to know.

I am looking for some sort of rubber flap to attach that fits and won't look too bad