check engine light

Hi...I drive a 2002 Tribute - never had any real problems with it. The check engine light came on the other day - per the owner's manual, I checked the fuel cap and filled up the gas tank (to avoid potential condensation in the tank) and the light went off. Stayed off for about a day and then came back on again. Can't get it in to the shop for a few days so I thought I'd ask if this has happened to anyone else and if so, what was the diagnosis of the problem and the resolution?

Thanks.

I suggest taking it to your dealer, because Mazda has done a number powertrain control module (PCM) reprograms. While the tech is checking for diagnostic trouble code, it only take a few minutes to check your PCM calibration & reprogram if available.

By far the most common problem with a check engine light would be an egr flow problem. The DPFE sensor is at fault 99.9% of the time and there is a warranty extension on this part that covers for 5 years or 74,000 miles. Code will probably be either a p0401 or p0402. Warranty coverage is provided by SSP 59.

I have a 2002 Mazda Tribute with about 25,000 miles on it. The check engine light came on about a week ago, and I have been lazy about taking it in, but after reading up on it here, I've decided to make the appointment. I'll report back on the results.

Is there a way that i can pull the check engine codes myself?

Not without an OBDII compatible scan tool like the ones in the links below. Many auto parts stores such as Autozone will pull the codes for free for you. Just take it in and have it scanned for codes. Come back and repost with what code you have. Just don't let then try and sell you what they think it probably is.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3389&mfrcode=EQU&mfrpartnumber=3030

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3389&mfrcode=AXR&mfrpartnumber=1500

I second the idea of purchasing a scan tool and doing it yourself. This way you know the exact code and the confidence that the actual problem is being taken care of.

In additon, you will be able to run a scan for any future problems yourself also - without having to set-up an appointment, which could consume your whole day.

quote:

ORIGINAL: babyhuey

By far the most common problem with a check engine light would be an egr flow problem. The DPFE sensor is at fault 99.9% of the time and there is a warranty extension on this part that covers for 5 years or 74,000 miles. Code will probably be either a p0401 or p0402. Warranty coverage is provided by SSP 59.

Can you please tell me where this DPFE sensor is located? I have an 01 Tribute and my Check Engine light also stays on.

Thanks,

Frank

Once changing the DPFE, I believe I found it, connected to two tubes by the transmission dip stick, do I need to reset the check engine light? Or will it go off by itself? If I need to reset it, how can I do it?

BTW, can one post pics on this forum? If so, where's the "easy" button for that?

Thanks,

Frank

With all of the code sources in an engine I do not think you should start replacing parts based on the probability of what the code might be. You should get the code read first and then figure out what parts should be replaced.

Percentage is in my favor that it is the DPFE.

How can I reset the light?

Yes the odds are probably in your favor but still does not take much time to double check by having the code number retrieved at a parts store that does this for free. DPFE sensor fault is usually stored as a P0401 or P0402 depending upon where the sensor voltage is stuck at.
Sounds like you found the sensor just fine back by the dispstick tube and below brake master cylinder area. Clearing the fault codes is a simple matter of disconnecting the negative battery cable for several minutes if you do not have a scan tool cable of doing this.
Uploading pics is fairly easy but is limited to a total of five per post and total size of 500kB. When writing a new post look toward the bottom of the message box that you are typing in. Will see this

Click here to upload! (a box) Embed picture in post.

check the box the click on the "click here to upload". A new window will come up. Click on the "Browse" button to look on your computer for the pic you want. Open the pic and then click OK when done. Should be self explanatory once you get started on it.

What was the thing you did about holding reset button and cycling key on and off to get some kind of code on the odometer??? Have never heard of that doing anything. Just curious anyway.

I didn't know the auto parts store will check codes for free? That's cool. My LPS didn't even know what a DPFE sensor was when I asked them yesterday. Oh well. I disconnected the battery cable earlier today at work, then drove home this evening. It hasn't come back on, but I'm sure it will.

Check out what comes up when you hold in the odemeter reset button and start your car three times. After the third time, still holding the button in, you will see "gage" then let go, and your gauge needles will rotate. Push it once for the disply to change. Check it out and then get back to me, see what you think.

Frank

Yes, some will check codes for free on OBDII level vehicles like yours. I know that Autozone does but not sure who else. Might try making a few phone calls and see if you have any local places that would. The DPFE stands for Differential Pressure Feedback Exhaust and is a sensor that the engine computer uses to determine if the EGR or Exhaust Gas Recirculation system is truly functioning correctly.

Now I see what you are doing with the odometer reset button. You are putting the instrument cluster in self-diagnostic mode. You actually don't even need to cycle the key to get there. With key in off position, push and hold the reset button Turn on the ignition to 'run' position while still holding the reset button down. In approx 5 seconds the display should read tESt. Now release the reset button and you are in self-diagnostic mode. The first test is the needle sweep. If you push reset again all of the LED segments will light up. Next press will turn on all of the warning lamps, etc. There are about 50 different things that each additional press will display ranging from programming level of the instrument cluster and failure codes for body related system to all of the different inputs from fuel level sender, temp sender, door ajar switches and on and on. If you are interested in what each press does I can see if I can bring it up and post it?

So that is just the instrument cluster diagnostic? Oh well, I thought it was the whole vehicle fault codes, not just the instrument cluster. Is there any useable info on it that I should be concerned with?

I have an Advanced Auto parts just up the road. I'll see if they can check the codes.

Thanks for all the info, I appreciate it.

Frank

BTW, how annoying are those underlined words? Let's see what gets underlined:


Auto Parts
Bathtub
Sink
Tires
Mazda
Ford Focus
Eyeglasses
Telephone
Furniture
Pool
Toothpaste
Wheels
Trombone

Ha Ha, I guess I am not the only one that has those annoying underlined words in the text. I think it is an Adware that has been installed on your computer without you knowing about it. None of the words you wrote are underlined on my computer but 'vehicle' in the first line and 'Auto parts' in third line of your post are. I ran into that some time back and thought someone had done something to the Forum. Contacted the Admin and he had no idea what I was talking about. Went to try it on another computer and nothing was underlined so knew it must be something on my computer. In the upper right corner of the pop-up there is a ? and an X. Click on the ? and it will take you to the Intellitext page to learn more about it. Is annoying to me too.


Not really any usefull information unless you are having a problem with the instrument cluster, gauges, or warning lights. I have only used the function a time or two.

No they weren't. Maybe because they were stand alones. Auto Parts, Bathtub, Sink, Tires, Mazda, Ford Focus, Eyeglasses, Telephone, Furniture, Pool, Toothpaste, Wheels, and Trombone.

Thanks for the info on the cluster. Might have a chance to my LPS tomorrow.

Frank

babyhuey,

I keep forgetting to ask. What's the best method to get the DPFE off of those two black tubes?

Thanks,

Frank

PS Sorry to hear your camera is missing.

The DPFE should just pull right off of the two black hoses Frank. They are just pushed on with no clamps used. A little twist and pull will usually allow you to get it right off of the pipes.

Cool, thanks for the info.

I guess we covered just about all there is to know about the DPFE haven't we?

Thanks again,

Frank

LPS has no idea what a DPFE is. Can I get one online or do I have to get one at a Ford or Mazda dealer?

Thanks,

Frank

Well if you will tell me what LPS is then I am sure I can find you not only an online source to get a DPFE sensor but a part number that will make the job even easier. Last 8 digits of your VIN would help as well as there are a couple of different sensors depending upon year built and engine.

Our LPS stores are NAPA and Advanced Auto Parts (Advanced says "what's a DPFE?").

Last 8 of the VIN are:

1KM48605

Good luck and thanks,

Frank

Doh!!! I get it. LPS = Local Parts Store.

Part number for the sensor from Mazda is a 1F72-20-302. You can but online at www.onlinemazdaparts.com for $30.22. Just enter that part number into the #2 box. Search by Factory Part Number.

Too bad it did not fail earlier this year as there is a Special Service Program or SSP 59 that extends the free replacement warranty on the part to 5 years from original warranty start date or 74,000 miles, whichever comes first. That warranty expired on your Trib 5/22/06 which was only 4 months ago. and it was still open with no warranty record of warranty replacement in history.

Thanks Babyhuey! Ill check here locally, then order online if I have to. I'd like to fix it tomorrow if I could.

Thanks for the help!

I believe now we have covered all there is to know about the DPFE sensor!

Frank