b2600 straight axle

has anyone finished a straight axle swap in a 2600 yet I should have mine done by tuesday

theres a few
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/album31

http://www.mazdaforum.com/m_28585/tm.htm

hope to have the axles rebuilt and the rest of my parts and start on it in the spring 07

the only problem I had was the front of these trucks are shorter than a toyota so the axle sat to far back and looked like crap so had to come up with something to extend the front 3 inches for the leafs to fit good and the axle to sit centered under the truck

i used all pro toy springs that had the center pins 1.5 inches farther forward, and used a piece of 2x2 on the front crossmember to mount the spring hanger from. post up some pics

Thats what I did and I also took a piece of 2x4 and welded it to the side of the frame with about 2 inches past for the 2x2 to mount to also so the front is boxed in for a bit more support. I also welded in a 2x4 piece of steel for the rear from one side to the other to weld on some shackle mounts. I must say this project was not the easiest but if you work on it straight for a week you can be finished wouldnt recommend it to anyone with out some welding and fab skills. when I get the steering done I will post some pics. these trucks sure do look good though with a straight axle.

what did you use for axles front/rear stick with the same drivetrain, and what are you planning for drivelines. i used the mazda slip output for a while, but after about 3 months it stripped out. i have a mod that i did and it works well, let me know what you got going on. maybe i can help

I was actually going to weld the shaft to the t-case then cut the end of the original drive line and weld it to a toyota shaft I have I used stock axles from a 84 toyota any help would be appreciated I have the front leafs all welded in place I just have to move the pads on the rear axle in a little to align the leafs to the frame the only problem I have left is steering I hope.

well 2 options, replace your steering box with a toyota IFS box, and run highsteer, i know that stuffs expensive, but its well worth it. or and alot of people will say no you shouldnt do this, cut the bung off of your stock pitman arm and weld the toyota end to it that fits the FJ-80 TRE's. worked fine for me,

will a toyota ifs box fit in its place or am I going to be welding and drilling some more holes if not I will probably just cut the original one off and weld another one on

nope, youll have to redrill some holes, trail-gear, all pro offroad and marlin all sell mount kits, they are pretty cheap. i think its 2 holes to drill and tube and a tab on top of the frame rail to weld on. the only benefit is later on it allows use of hydro assist which would come in mighty handy. i run 37x 13.50 and i wouldnt mind having the extra steering power.

monster where are you located I would like to meet up one time when my truck is done and chat I am in seattle

im over in yakima, i dont have a trailer or tow rig so travel for me is pretty limited. i spend alot of time around rimrock/little naches in the summers tho

I'm working on a SAS also. I'm going to be using 52" Chevy springs up front and 63" springs in the rear. I have to extend the frame 6" to keep the axle centerline where it's at stock. I want to push the axle forward 2" though, so I'm extending the frame 8". I also have to extend the rear 4" to position the rear axle w/ the 63" springs.
My axles are from an 85 Chevy 3/4 ton pickup, full width. It's a 14-bolt rear and 10-bolt front, however, I still need a few small parts to finish the front axle. I have 16.5x12 wheels with 40x17x16.5 Ground Hawg tires to go on it also.
Once the SAS is done and the truck is running well with the setup, comes the drivetrain swap. I'm currently rebuilding an Olds 455 to shoehorn into the truck (by the measurement, it can be done w/ custom headers) with a SM465/NP205 behind it. It's going to be pretty stout once the whole setup is done.
I'm moving as much stuff and lightening the front end as much as possible to compensate for when the 455 goes in. I've even considered cutting the firewall and pushing the engine back on the frame and making up custom shifters for the tranny and X-case. If possible, I want the front and rear driveshafts to be the same length and have the COG as close to 50/50 as possible.

wow blas you have one hell of a project going on would be interesting to see when finished

quote:

ORIGINAL: mwce2

wow blas you have one hell of a project going on would be interesting to see when finished

I was ALMOST ready to start the drivetrain swap. Christmas put a hurt on my wallet though, not counting my family (5 kids mind you), we have to buy presents for about 20 other people... brothers, sisters and nieces and nephews. That's on top of a trip out to Missouri to see my side of the family.
I'm hoping to come back from it and be done w/ the swap sometime in February or March. I'm going to take pictures of the entire process from start to finish to hopefully help anyone else out.

I was hoping to finish my truck in a week or two but I live in eastern wa and the winter put a stop to working outside just put up a new shop and no heat yet

will a toyota pitman arm fit on a mazda steering box probably not and has anyone had custom valves or anything done to there motor other than a header

nope you would have to cut the bung off the mazda arm and weld it to the toyota, as far as the fan shroud i would suggest just ditching the mechanical and getting a large electric fan because after so many years the plastic deteriorates and can cause some problems, this last weekend in a 4 runner the fan exploded and slit a power steering line. i would still recomend a toy ifs steering box, and where in eastern wa are you located?

I had to cut the edges of my fan cause when I reved it the fan would flex and take my radiator out I went through 2 radiators before I realized the problem and I am located in malott close to omak and okanogan I am looking into a power steering box there are a few on ebay pretty cheap might pick one up

wow this not working on my truck stuff is starting to piss me off was trying to cut some tubing and the cutoff wheel grabbed and cut my leg just a bunch of crap. am ordering the high steer conversion from trail gear that will be nice other than that not much to post on progress of truck.

quote:

ORIGINAL: mwce2

I had to cut the edges of my fan cause when I reved it the fan would flex and take my radiator out I went through 2 radiators before I realized the problem and I am located in malott close to omak and okanogan I am looking into a power steering box there are a few on ebay pretty cheap might pick one up

had this happen after the bodylift found the clutch fan from a 2200 is shorter than the 2600 by about 1 1/2 inches. the fans are the same diameter and i've had no problems keep'in it cool

are the transfercases on these trucks even close to a toyota wondering if a toyota output shaft would work

for the rear i just used the mazda d shaft, and had a driveline shop put a toyota flange on it for the rear diff. for the front i took a toyota case, cut the front output shaft off just alittle behind the splines, then i took my ase apart pulled the front drive gear and shaft, its all one piece. the little piece of toyota shaft sits just inside the mazda shaft. welded that on there and then it allows the use of a toyota bolt on flange.

I guess I really didnt understand that but what keeps the shaft from sliding out can I just take a toyota output shaft and use that or is it different splines

Finally finished installing A 84 toyota axle in my mazda turned out nice still needs steering kind of fabed some stuff up to use the stock toyota steering dosn't turn worth a damn probably will never do it again will add some pics by tomorrow or so